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AMERICAN WEAVER 

ANI) 

Catalope of Woolen and Worsted Fabrics 

* 

Six WITH 


Namks and Description of the Many Cloths 
ok All Wool, Commercially All Wool, 
Worsteds, Union Woolens, Cot¬ 
ton Worsteds, Angolas, 

Etc., Etc. 


T 



For the Discovery of Adulterants in Woolen and 
Worsted Fabrics, and Ready Reference 
for Merchant and Salesman. 



By <t. R. RYMARCZICK. 

-- .• «, •; 


BOSTON: 

Boston Printino Company, 216 Purchase Street. 

1903. 


On \3 






THE LtURARY OF 


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Copyrighted, 1900, 

By O. R. Rymarczick. 


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A 


INTRODUCTION. 


This work is the result of many years’ successful 
. experience in the woolen and worsted goods manufac¬ 
tory, and the dissection of many samples of the fln- 
v ished product of this class. The many schemes 
adopted by merchants to educate the consumer to 
cheap goods—away from the real article to that as 
artificial—low in price anyway, regardless of intrinsic 
value, and often advertising fictitious values to en¬ 
trap many that would rather pay more did they but 
know what was hidden under that fine veneer. 

Its mission is to convey general information con¬ 
cerning the many and various woolen and worsted 
fabrics made. The material employed for the high 
“or standard” grades, as also those somewhat lower 
in grade and less costly, and again those known as 
cheap and spurious imitations. The name under 
which sold, and wearing apparel for which best 
adapted. The many drugs employed for the coloring 
of textile material—the means and methods employed 
to make cotton appear like silk—the various tests 
whereby to ascertain the true characteristic and in¬ 
trinsic value of fabric so tested. 

Herein will be found just such information that the 
discriminating customer calls for. (The day of the 
old and time-worn claim that there has to be a dash 
of prevarication in business, and not making any 
unnecessary and undue display of the naked truth 
has outlived its usefulness.) 

He wants to know, and none will be more ready 
and willing to adhere to the truth than the merchant 
dealing in honest, all wool goods. 

It is published because of a lack of knowledge of 
even the simplest rudiments concerning textile fab¬ 
rics in the average salesman and saleslady. To sup¬ 
port this assertion, the following extract from a 
letter in the author’s possession should be conclusive, 
viz:— 

“Dear Sir: Our attention has been called to the 
fact that you have given textile lectures on several 
occasions. V.'e have been making an attempt to teach 
our employees, more scientifically than mere experi¬ 
ence will do. something about the goods they handle. 
. . . Have you anything in print upon these subjects? 



4 


INTRODUCTION. 


Assuring: you that we shall heartily appreciate any 
attention you may grlve us, etc., etc.” 

Another writes: “We certainly agree with you as 
to the advisability of educating the public to a proper 
appreciation of the advantages of all wool clothing, 
etc.” 

And another says: “We want to be in position to 
explain to the public the difference as between good 
all wool goods and those made of shoddy and rub¬ 
bish.” 

These coming from firms that easily lead the pro¬ 
cession in first-class ready-to-Avear garments, prove 
that there exists a void which Honorable Merchants 
are anxious to fill. 

While T.ectures on the subject with Demonstrations 
of the \ r arlous Woolen and Worsteds must always 
prove most beneficial, it is impossible to reach those 
Avhom it concerns most; hence, it is the object of the 
Author to place in the hands of ali that so desire a 
source of information for self-protection. 

All technical terms have been avoided, and the 
whole is so plain there can be no misunderstanding 
of the numerous subjects tr<;it. 1 

It is intended to educate the reader to a better 
understanding of one of the necessaries of life and 
should on this account commend itself to all Edu¬ 
cators. 


The Author. 


Catalogue of Fabrics. 


A 

Abu. A woolen fabric manufactured in Turkey. 

Abb. An English term for warp, or those threads 
running lengthwise of a piece of cloth. 2, Abb wool. 

Abncn. Commonly known as manila hemp. Is uses 
in many and various ways. Some fibres of this variety 
are so fine that they are used in the most delicate 
and costly fabrics; mixed with the fibres of the pine¬ 
apple, forming Pina Muslin, and textures equal to 
the best muslins of Bengal. The fibres are also dis¬ 
solved and manufactured into very thin tissue-paper; 
this is then cut into narrow strips and twisted into 
thread; this is in turn converted into braid, and sub¬ 
sequently, this braid is converted into ladies’ hats and 
bonnets. This fine yarn is also used in connection 
with fine cotton warp in the production of fabrics lor 
ladies’ and children’s summer dresses; lounging pil¬ 
lows, etc., etc. The coarser kind is used for tying up 
bundles, packages, etc.; is especially useful “when 
woven with strong cotton warp’’ as a floor covering 
for summer cottages and southern climes. More 
healthy, artistic and durable than ordinary matting 
so-called; and more serviceable than some of the 
many cheap carpets. This is known as FIBRE 
CARPET. 

Abboln. A military robe of thick woolen stuff in 
use among ancient Greeks and Romans. Webster. 

Adatl*. A fine cotton fabric from India. 

Afrldl-wax Clotli. A cotton fabric embossed in 
colors, has been manufactured in India from time im¬ 
memorial. It is a well known product of certain 
native work shops in Eahore, Bombay, Calcutta and 
other cities, and is a favorite material for the Afridi 
woman’s costume. The wax is obtained from the oil 
of the wild safflower seeds, and subsequently mixed 
with mineral colors drawn out into fine threads by a 
pointed stylus, with which the pattern is traced. 

Alamode. A thin, lustrous black silk for hoods, 
scarfs, etc. 

AllmtrosK. A dress fabric of worsted warp and 
worsted filling; of open texture and fancy weaves; of 
solid and various colors. 



« THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

Alpaca. A thin fabric of close texture, made from 
the fibres of an animal of the Llamu species; mixed 
with silk or with cotton. Imitations of all cotton are 
manufactured, and sold under this name. 

Angola. A liKht and fashionable fabric made from 
the fine hair of the Angora goat, mixed with fine 
merino lambs’ wool for solidity of fabric. The hair 
being used to adorn and beautify the fabric is 
by means of the various finishing processes made to 
appear on the surface in waves, ringlets, curls, or 
long, straight wavy nap. according to the dictates of 
fickle fashion. Tne following explains the extent to 
which adulterations in this class of goods are carried 
on. as also the causes therefor and the remedy. 

COTTON MIXTURE OH ANGORA YARN. 

[Indian Textile Journal.] 

Competition has wrought wonders in all branches 
of trade in the way of sharpening the wits of com¬ 
petitors; and it is to be feared that, where such a 
thing is possible, adulteration has been one of the 
results. This evil is intensely aggravated when the 
general public get hold of an idea that any particular 
branch of trade is a certain source of wealth to the 
trader; for then over-competition is followed by over¬ 
production, and sorry indeed are the shifts to which 
people are put in the endeavor to outstrip their 
neighbors and secure that competency for which good 
men pray. A few years ago people were seized with 
this notion with reference to the woolen and worsted 
trades, and consequently made a rush to invest their 
money in them. Unfortunately, not only did too 
many do this for all to succeed, even had the condi- 
. tlons remained the same, but trade fell off. markets 
to which quantities of goods had formerly been 
sent at remunerative prices were closed or virtually 
closed by hostile tariffs, and bitter have been the 
consequences to very many. The result most affect¬ 
ing the public generally is the adulteration which is 
now carried on to an enormous extent in the woolen 
trade; but they know perfectly well that to secure a 
good article they must give a good price, and that 
things ridiculously cheap are not genuine. Still, such 
are the changes of fashion in dress nowadays, that 
even garments composed of materials formerly con¬ 
sidered good enough for anything are often thrown 
aside as oldfashioned when only half worn. 

The man into whose fertile brain the thought first 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


7 


entered of mixing materials so different in every way 
as wool and cotton certainly deserves a monument; 
but if such an honor were decreed, and the various 
claimants took the case into the law courts, the dura¬ 
tion of the Tichborne trial would be as nothing com¬ 
pared with the length of time it would take to settle 
to whom it was due. Whoever tried the experiment 
first, it is certain that he could have had no idea of 
the extent to which his example would be followed; 
for now. even in better goods, Angola yarns are the 
rule and all-wool yarns the exception. Not only is 
raw cotton used, but the cotton waste from the Lan¬ 
cashire mills: “strip,” “fly,” “laps,” “roller end,” and 
greasy waste are in daily use, dyed and otherwise, 
for mixing in different proportions with animal fibres 
of various classes, to produce yarns which it is often 
hard even for the practiced eye to distinguish from 
“all wool.” The reason people mix cotton with wool 
and other expensive animal fibres is to cheapen the 
yarn. The reason people mix cotton with mangoes 
and other cheap animal fibres is to add to the strength 
of the yarn and cause it to spin to the requisite 
length without going to the expense of using wool or 
other materials proportionately. The aim of the 
manufacturer in making an Angola yarn is certainly 
a deceptive one, for he works to produce as good an 
imitation as possible of yarn unadulterated with cot¬ 
ton, and to do this he has many difficulties to con¬ 
tend with, for even supposing him to have succeeded 
in making a yarn first-rate to all appearances, the 
question arises, how will that yarn look in cloth 
ready for the market, after going through the various 
processes of making and finishing. It would be im¬ 
possible here to enter into details with regard to the 
various sorts of animal fibre with which cotton is 
mixed—such as alpacas and many other varieties of 
hair, silk, etc., but a few remarks on mixtures of wool 
and its descendants, in various generations, with cot¬ 
ton is all that will be attempted in this article. 

The proportion in which cotton is used in Angola 
yarns varies very greatly according to the price at 
which the yarn is required, length to which it is to 
be spun, and the purpose for which it is to be used. 
Perhaps the principal difficulties to be contended with 
in its use are a certain hardness of feel natural to 
the cotton itself, and which it requires great skill to 
over com e wh en the proportion of cotton used is large 
_and the disinclination it has in common with all 


8 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER 






other vegetable fibres to be permanently affected by 
dyes. 

Manufacturers know well that for producing a soft 
handle of cloth nothing is so well adapted as lamb's 
wool. Still, even when they could well afford to go 
to the expense of using wool of this class unadul¬ 
terated for their yarn, a small percentage of cotton 
is sometimes mixed with the wool for the purpose of 
making the yarn more compact, and checking a tend¬ 
ency this class of wool’ has to spread too much on 
the face of the cloth. In this case, of course, the 
difficulty of the hardness of feel mentioned .above is 
quite overcome by the wool bursting and spreading 
on the surface of the cloth in the milling process, ami 
with the small proportion of cotton which is often 
used the most practiced hand could not detect, from 
the feel of the cloth, that the yarn used in its manu¬ 
facture was Angola, whilst the appearance of the 
cloth would In some cases (as mixtures, etc.), be 
better and clearer than If cotton had not been used. 
In low-priced yarns for soft-handling goods, such as 
the plain and fancy cotton warps made in the neigh¬ 
borhood of Leeds, in which very little wool (or bot¬ 
any-noils. which are used in preference to wool by 
some manufacturers) can be afforded the requisite 
“handle” is attempted with more or less success by 
the use of fine mossy mungoes. The whites are 
mostly pulled from flannels, and the various fancy 
shades to suit the customer are dyed from the same. 
The regular browns and greens are from fine mel¬ 
tons. and one or two standard drabs from carriage 
linings. The flannels are, of course, merely lamb's or 
Cape wool at second hand, and answer their purpose 
very well, coming well to the top in the milling proc¬ 
ess. In addition to this large quantities of cutting 
flocks are used, and prove a great help in covering 
the hardness of the cotton. Fine Peruvian cotton is 
the best adapted for this class of yarn, and though 
some sorts of cotton waste are often used, on account 
of the advantage gained in price. It is always at a 
sacrifice of clearness. 

Aurora. The fibre of this goat is commercially 
known as mohair. The skins are largely used in the 
making of children’s muffs and for the trimmings of 
coats and capes. Carriage robes too claim a good 
share of the skins; and, the hair being nearly one 
foot in length makes them exceedingly beautiful and 
serviceable withal. Also for the scalps for dolls. 


0 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

The flbre enters largely into that class of goods 
known as Astrakhan, Crepons, Plushes, Brilliantines, 
Zibelines, fine Cashmeres and many other fabrics 
usually sold as all wool, or worsted, according to the 
mode of preparing the stock (either carded or 
combed) before spinning into yarn. It is found in the 
finest of silk and worsted fabrics for ladies’ wear, 
as also in linings, mittens and fine cloaking and over¬ 
coatings. It is noted especially for its water-repelling 
qualities, its beauty and high lustre. Not so much 
for its warmth-retaining properties. For this wool 
alone stands unequalled. 

Armozlne. A thick, plain, silk fabric; generally 
black, and used for clerical robes. 

Astrakhan. A fabric manufactured from astrakhan 
fibre; of a curly, wavy surface. (See “Angora.”) 

Awning. A cotton cloth used as a cover to shelter 
from the sun’s rays, usually of cotton. 

Aylefthiun. A fine linen fabric made at Aylesham 
in Norfolk. The Aylesham linens and webs are fre¬ 
quently mentioned in old records.—Webster. 

All Wool Cashmere. As no material by this name 
exists there can be no definition. When the term is 
used defining a fabric, it is a delusion and a snare. 
(See “Cashmere.”) 

All Wool Cnsslmere. This term employed in adver¬ 
tising clothing may mean that the outer cloth from 
which the garment to which such designation is given 
is made, is composed of all new wool employed in 
manufacture for the first time. On the other hand, it 
may mean Old Rag Shoddy, that has been in cloth 
and fibre a number of times. Technically, if all wool 
shoddy, it is wool, and all healthy fibres however 
short will present .a wool appearance. By healthy is 
meant, where the scales, peculiar to the wool fibre, 
have not been destroyed. (See “Cassimere.”) In this 
case it is commercially all wool. 

I i 

B 

Bagging. A stout material usually of cotton woven 
like a hollow tube. (2) A stout fabric made of jute, 
of both close and open texture, according to the pur¬ 
pose for which intended. 

Baldekln. A rich cloth used in mediaeval times; 
named from Bagdad. 

Batlmt. A fine linen fabric first made in Flanders, 
and named after its inventor, a weaver in the 13th 
century. 


10 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


Rajurx. A well known tapestry which Is said to 
have been the work of Matilda, the wife of the Con¬ 
queror, and her assistants. Some of the fabric* hiv¬ 
ing a faint resemblance to the above are occasionally 
given this name. 

Beaver*. A heavy cloth manufactured of line wool, 
with a finish oj\ surface to resemble an animal by 
that name. 

Fur-Benver. Similar in many respects to above; 
but having; on its surface a long, dense nap. in Imi¬ 
tation of the fur of the beaver. A woolen cloth usu¬ 
ally used for overcoats, cloaks and capes. To give 
an accurate description and definition of the fabric 
as manufactured at the present time is impossible, as 
nearly all contain shoddy and refuse that is hidden 
under a fine veneer, and there is but little resem¬ 
blance between the fabric and the animal by that 
name. 

fonl Cord. A fine woolen fabric with fine re¬ 
cesses running with the piece, and extensively used 
for ladies' dress goods. (2) An all wool cloth of 
close texture for gentlemen’s clothing; the recesses 
may also be made with fine cotton yarn hidden in the 
wool filling. 

Itnndann. A species of silk or cotton handkerchief, 
having a uniformly dyed ground, usually of red or 
blue, with white figures of a circular or lozenge form, 
made by discharging the color. 

Ilcd-sprcads. See counterpane or coverlet. May be 
mnde of Linen or Cotton. 

Binding*. A species of narrow fabrics of* silk, 
worsted or cotton, for binding the edges of garments, 
the bottom of dress skirts, etc. 

Blanket. A heavy stuff of wool, cotton, or mixture 
of the two; or may be made entirely of shoddy, 
mungo, etc., named after its inventor, Thomas 
Blanket, who was connected with tne woolen indus¬ 
try in England in 1340 A. D. 

Hottany. A term applied to worsted yarns made 
from bc.ttany wool. It Is considered the finest of all 
worsted yarns, and is used for fine fabrics of close 
texture. 

Bombasine. A twilled fabric, of which the warp is 
silk and the filling is worsted. First made in Nor¬ 
wich, England, in 1R75. 

Bungoe*. A peculiar kind of shawl first made at 
Strathbungo, near Glasgow, Scotland. Sometimes ap- 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 11 

plied to other fabrics supposed to resemble the tex¬ 
ture and character of these shawls. 

Burel. A coarse stuff used during the 13th cen¬ 
tury. 

Box Cloth. A very heavy, compact, solid, firm 
woolen fabric for coachmen’s overcoats. Manufac¬ 
tured from fine high-felting quality wool; severely 
felted: piece or wool-dyed; boiled finish; closely 
sheared; black, blue, green, tan and fawn, in many 
shades and tints; from deepest shade to most delicate 
tint. When lustre needed is lacking in the wool it¬ 
self. it is produced by artificial means to a certain 
extent; usually by forcing steam, hot and cold water 
through the goods alternately; and by means of pres¬ 
sure. Plate pressing is the most desirable for this 
class of goods. 

Buckram. A coarse linen cloth, stiffened with glue- 
size; used in garments to keep them in the form in¬ 
tended; and for wrappers to cover cloth and other 
merchandise. Takes its name from Fostat, a city of 
the middle ages, and from which the modern Cairo is 
descended. 

Bunting. A fine fabric made of all silk; fine all 
wool worsted; worsted and silk; silk and cotton; 
worsted and cotton; and all cotton; a fabric used for 
flags, and for decorative purposes. (See ‘‘Danish 
Cloth”) 

Burl. A knot or lump in thread or cloth; to take 
away the knots or lumps or impure parts of thread 
from cloth: first steps in finishing woolen fabrics. 

Burlap. A coarse fabric made of jute or hemp, and 
is used for bagging. This name is also given a finer 
variety of similar material used for curtains. 

Burlor. A dresser of cloth; one who picks off knots 
and bunches in finishing cloth. Also a machine 
known as sand-burler, to facilitate the finishing. 

Braid. A texture formed by weaving different 
strands together. 

Broad-cloth. An exceedingly fine, all new wool, 
highly felted; “boiled” face finished cloth. Made 
from the finest and best felting quality wool; such as 
Selisian and Saxony. Used for the best class of full- 
dress suits. Prince Alberts’ and Tuxedo’s; usually 
black. A similar fabric to above, but much lighter 
in weight, and of various solid colors for ladies’ suit¬ 
ings, etc. This class of goods, made from fine Ger¬ 
man or Australian wool, is exceedingly high grade, 
and consequently expensive. Very little of this once 


12 


THE AMERICAS WEAVER. 


popular fabric is seen at present. Ohio wools may be 
used to good advantage here. 

IlrtllliintlncM. A class of ladies' dress fabrics manu¬ 
factured from the line hairs of the Angora goat. Of 
high lustre; brilliant; in all colors, shades and tints. 
Exceedingly beautiful. 

Itrocnde. A silk fabric variegated with gold and 
silver, or raised and enriched with flowers, foliage 
and other ornaments. Also applied to other cloths 
so wrought and embellished. 

ltri!N«elN. This applies to a kind of carpet with a 
basis composed ol warp and filling of strong linen 
threads. Colored woolen threads are added which 
alone show on the upper surface, and are drawn up 
in loops to form the figure. 

Iturdn. A striped fabric. "Webster.” 

lturd Allnnnder. The oldest known design for any 
textile fabric. 

Huckakin. This is an all wool cloth; made of high 
felting-property new wool; severely felted in fulling 
stocks ("not rotary fulling mill"); closely sheared, 
and when finished resembling buck-skin in looks and 
feel. Piece dyed to resemble the color of this leather. 

Honele. The genuine Boucle fabrics are manufac¬ 
tured from specially made yarns; the loop shown on 
surface must be on the yarn itself To distinguish 
between the real and counterfeit it is but necessary 
to note the face of fabric. In the genuine there is 
no absolute regularity of loops in regular order; in 
the imitation this regularity is produced by mechani¬ 
cal means, as also the loops. 

C 

Cadet-cloth. A fabric manufactured from a mix or 
blend of blue and white wool. Used for uniforms of 
various kinds. 

Cadet-mix. A mix or blend of blue and white wool. 

Cnlico. A fine cotton fabric, first made and printed 
in Calicut, a town in India, formerly celebrated for its 
cotton cloth. 

Caliinnneo. A glossy, woolen, satin-twilled fabric; 
checkered or brocaded in the warp with pattern show¬ 
ing on one side only. Much used for dress occasions 
in the 18th century. 

Camels’ Ilalr. A fabric in which camels’ hair has 
been mixed with wool or cotton, or both. A rough, 
soft surface. 

Camlet. A fabric originally made of camels’ hair. 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 13 

now frequently of hair and silk, or of wool and other 
materials. Wavy, undulating - . 

Cambric. A. fine and thin fabric of flax or linen; a 
fabric made in imitation of linen cambric of fine hard 
spun cotton yarn of various colors. First made in 
Cambray, a town in Flanders. 

Cambrnsine. A species of fine linen made in 
Egypt, and so named from resembling cambric. 

Canton Flannel. A twilled flannel, fleeced or 
napped on the surface, usually cotton. Name said to 
have been taken from Canton, China. 

Cashmere. Super Merionet and Muncaster. A fine 
all-wool, silk mixed fabric for waist-coating; of Eng¬ 
lish manufacture, and made from the finest Austra¬ 
lian clothing wool, and the finest fibres from the 
Thibet goats of India. 

Cashmere, or Cacheinere. The genuine fabric of this 
class at one time the only one sold under this name, 
was formerly produced in the kingdom of Cashmere 
and is produced from the fibres of the Thibet goat, 
without the admixture of other fibres or adulteration. 
The material of the genuine Cashmere shawl is the 
downy undercoat of the fleece. On this account the 
oriental cashmere shawls are the result of an ex¬ 
tremely slow weaving process. (2). Russian cash¬ 
mere is one of the finest grades of fabrics made in 
America. Usually manufactured from a fine strong 
wool for warp, and the filling produced from the coats 
of the cashmere goat. The filling of very slack or 
soft twist, with a weaving plan that will allow the 
filling to furnish the cover for the surface. The 
result is a fabric at once very serviceable, pliable, 
soft and velvety to the touch. It is the cream, as it 
were, of all cashmeres. So named because of the 
material being obtained from that country. (3). Chi¬ 
nese cashmere, like the former, but of a grade some¬ 
what more coarse and hairy; yet, withal, a splendid 
fabric. 

Cnsslmere. A twilled cloth for gentlemen's wear, 
manufactured from all new, long stapled, strong, 
luster wool, (Pick lock) the choicest parts of the 
fleece; and. when spun to fine numbers, woven of a 
high number of threads and picks, and threadbare 
finish, much resemble the medium grades of worsteds. 
Very little of this once popular fabric is to be found, 
at present, in ready-made clothing Nearly all that 
class of woolen cloths for ladies’ and gentlemen’s 
wear sold under this name contains every imaginable 




14 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


fibre In its composition: shoddy, mungo, flocks, cotton, 
and are by the finishing: processes so skillfully hidden 
as to deceive. 

Fancy Cualmrre. Like the foregoing, in many re¬ 
spects. Made of carded yarns, in two or more colors; 
fancy weaving effects; checks; plaids; or, all combined 
in one fabric. Some of the finest wool grown is 
found in the genuine fancy cassimere. 

Medium Caawline. Similar to foregoing, but manu¬ 
factured of lower grade of stock; of fibres more 
coarse and strong. 

Union Canalmere. A fabric as the name Implies, 
manufactured of material of various properties; a 
union, a blend; a mixture of wool and shoddy; wool, 
shoddy and cotton, with a liberal application of Hocks 
to reverse side to add weight and give a woolly feel. 
A cheap grade of cassimere; an imitation of an all 
wool enssimere. A mean substitute often sold as all 
wool. In fact on every hand can be found substitutes 
sold under names implying sterling qualities. The 
abbreviation of cassimere is written “Cass.” This is 
wrong as it may mean casslnette. 

CaNMlnctte. A fabric made of cotton warp and very 
fine wool filling; or. wool and silk. 

Carriage Cloth. A severely felted woolen fabric, in 
many respects similar to broadcloth, very fine beaver 
or kersey; short, thick nap on surface completely 
concealing the weave; also, a fabric manufactured of 
cotton warp and wool, or wool and merino extract 
shoddy for filling. The felting process completely 
covers cotton warp. This is cotton warp or union 
carriage cloth. 

Cn»ket Cloth. A plain fabric of wool, and in its 
various forms of admixture with other material 
usually dyed black. 

ChnlllM. An elegant, twilled, fine fabric, made from 
mohair; used for ladies' dresses. 

Chambrays. A plain colored gingham 

Chinchilla. A heavy woolen cloth with curly upper 
surface. Tt may be persumed that this fabric at one 
time had some resemblance to the fur of an animal 
by that name. But few of the goods sold under that 
name at present can bo said to retain the resemblance. 
It is a fabric easily adulterated, and it is safe to say 
that full advantage is taken of the opportunity. If 
manufactured of all new wool it is a very serviceable, 
warm, soft and dressy article, in both black and blue 
for overgarments. 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 15 

Chenilles. Tufted cords of silk or worsted; used in 
ladies’ dresses. 

Cheeks. Small squares of various colors. 

Cheviot. A worsted, or woolen fabric made of 
cheviot or “pulled wool”; slightly felted; short even 
nap on surface; supple feel. Worsted cheviots in 
plain colorings or of fancy effects, are manufactured 
from combed yarn. Woolen cheviots are made from 
carded yarn. The greatest portion of this class of 
goods in carded yarns contains little or no new wool 
in its make up. Shoddy, mungo and a liberal admix¬ 
ture of cotton, to hold together, blended in the many 
colorings. helps to cover the deception. (See 
“Scotches.”) 

Chintz. A cotton fabric, printed with flowers and 
other devices, in various colors. 

Clay«. A twilled worsted cloth, made from long- 
stapled, soft, feltable wool. Usually dyed black; Arm, 
soft, smooth feel. 

Cloth. A term applied to all fabrics; should apply 
to heavy goods only. 

Como. This is applied to certain silk fabrics of a 
high number of threads warpwise. Unbalanced fab¬ 
ric, tender fillingwise. 

Cotton. The following table shows the size of the 
American cotton crop from 1826 to 1902 inclusive, 
with highest and lowest prices paid for the staple. 
“Fractions mean sixteenths of a cent.” 


Year 

Bales 

Highest 

Lowest 

Year 

Bales 

Highest 

Lowest 

1826 

• • 957,281.. 

..14 


.. 9 

1865 

. .2,278,000.. 

.. 1.2 ... 

.35 

18*27 

.. 720,593.. 

..12 


.. 8 

1860 

.. 2,'233,<*00.. 

..52 ... 

.32 

1828 

.. 857,744.. 

..13 


.. 9 

1867 

..‘2,599,000.. 

..36 ... 

.15.8 

1829 

.. 976,845.. 

.11 


.. 8 

1868 

. .2,437,000.. 

..33 ... 

.16 

1880 

..1,038,848.. 

..13 


.. 8 

1869 

.3,114,592.. 


.26 

1881 

• • 987,477. • 

..11 


• • 7 

1870 

..4,347,006.. 

..25.12... 

.15 

1882 

. 1,070,438.. 

..12 


• • i 

1871 

..2,974,351.. 

..21.4 ... 

.14.12 

1833 

..1,205,324.. 

..17 


.. 9 

1872 

..3,874,000.. 

..27.6 ... 

.18.10 

1X34 

.. 1,254,328.. 

..16 


..10 

1873 

. .4,130,000.. 

..‘21.6 ... 

.13.10 

1886 

..1,360,726.. 

..20 


..15 

1874 

..3,831,000.. 

..18.14... 

.14.12 

1836 

..1,426,476.. 

..20 


..1*2 

1875 

. .4,632,313.. 

..17.2 ... 

.13.1 

1887 

..1,8* 4,797.. 

..17 


.. 7 

1876 

..4,474,069.. 

..13.6 ... 

.10.14 

1838 

. .1,263,403.. 

..12 


.. 9 

1877 

.. 4,773,865.. 

..13.5 ... 

.10.13 

1839 

..2,181,749.. 

..16 


..11 

1878 

. .5,074,155.. 

..12.3 ... 

. 8.13 

1840 

. .1,639,353.. 

..10 


.. 8 

1879 

. 5,761,262.. 

..13.12... 

. 9.4 

1841 

..1,683,674.. 

..11 


.. 9 

1880 

. .6,605,750.. 

..13.4 ... 

.10.15 

1842 

.2,378,876.. 

.. 9 


.. 7 

1881 

. .5,456,048.. 

..13 ... 

.10.14 

1843 

. .2,03o,409.. 

.. 8 


.. 5 

1882 

. .6,949,756.. 

..13.1 ... 

.10.4 

1844 

..2,394.503.. 

.. 9 


.. 5 

1883 

..5,713,200.. 

..11.2 ... 

.10 

1845 

..2,100,537.. 

.. 8.6 


.. 5 

1884 

. .5,706,165.. 

..11.15... 

. 9.12 

1846 

•. 1,7(8,6;>1.. 

..10 


.. 6 

1885 

. .6,575,691.. 

..11.8 ... 

. 9.3 

















16 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


Tutr 

Belei 

lligheat 

Lowest 

Yeer 

3 Dali * 

lii|h«it 

Lowest 

1847 

•2,428,000.. 

.12 .. 

f» 

• • I 

1-., 

. .6,490,585. 

...li.i .. 

8.13 

1848 

.2,840,000.. 

.. 8 .. 

.. 6 

1887 

..7,046,888. 

...11.7 •• 

.. 9.14 

1841* 

.2,204,000.. 

..11 .. 

.. 6 

1888 

..6,939,000. 

...11.6 .. 

.. 9 10 

1850 

.2,415,000.. 

..14 

.11 

188*.* 

..7,297,000, 

...11.8 .. 

., 9.12 

1851 

.8,126,000.. 

.. 14 

.. 8 

1890 

..8,674,000. 

...12.12 . 

.. 9.3 

1852 

.8,416,000.. 

.. 10 .. 

.. 6 

1891 

..9,018,000. 

... 9.8 .. 

.. 7 12 

1868 

.8,075,000.. 

..11 .. 

..10 

1892 

. .6,664,000. 

...10 .. 

.. 6.1) 

1864 

.2,983,000.. 

.. 10 .. 

.. 8 

1898 

. .7,532,000. 

... 9.15.. 

.. 74 

1856 

.3,665,000.. 

..12 .. 

.. 8 

1894 

..9,837,999 

... 8.5 .. 

.. 5 9 

1856 

.8,094,000. . 

..’3 .. 

.. 9 

1805 

..7,147,000. 

... 9.6 .. 

.. 5.9 

18.57 

.3,267,000. . 

..15.14.. 

.. 9 

189*; 

. .8,706,000. 

... 8.14.. 

.. 71 

1858 

.4,019,000 . 

. 18.8 .. 

.. 8.14 

1897 

.11,216,000. 

... 8.4 .. 

.. 5.13 

1859 . 

.4,801,000 . 

..12.12.. 

..10.10 

1898 

. 11,266,006. 

... 6.9 .. 

.. 5.5 

1N!0 . 

.3,849,000. . 

..11.6 .. 

..10 

189*.* 

. 9,422,000. 

... 7.13.. 

.. 5.14 

1861 . 

.Not certain 

18 

..11.8 

1900 

. 10,339.000. 

.. 11 .. 

.. 7.9 

1862 . 

44 44 

..69.8 .. 

..20 

1001 

. 10,286,000. 

... 12 .. 

.. 8 

isos . 

44 44 

. .96 


1902 

10,679,000. 

... 9.14.. 

.. 8.3 

1804 . 

44 44 

.. 1.9 .. 

..72 

1903 

.10,800,000 

Eetimeteof 






Ellison 

& Co. 


CoiinionrttF. A woolen or worsted fnbric shower¬ 
proofed In the finishing. (See “Cravenette.”) 

Cottonnrie. A thick, stout cotton cloth. 

Counterpane. A cover for a bed, woven in squares, 
now corrupted into counterpane from the idea of 
panes, or square openings, such ns were formerly' em¬ 
ployed In some parts of a dress. 

Coverlet. The uppermost cover of a bed or other 
furniture. 

Covert. A fabric made of combed or carded, line 
two ply warp, hard twisted varn; single Ailing; Arm, 
close texture, soft, smooth Anish on surface; free 
from nap on face; for ladies’ and gentlemen’s over- 
garments. To protect. To shelter against inclement 
weather. 

Crape. A thin, transparent stuff made of raw silk, 
gummed and twisted on the mill. Woven without 
crossing. It is much used for mourning garments, 
also for gowns for the clergy. The process of mak¬ 
ing crape-silk consists In' the extra spinning, sizing 
and stoving, and not alone in any peculiarity in 
weaving. Imitations are made to appear like real 
silk crape in the Anishing processes; such as running 
the fabric through heavy size and crimping machin¬ 
ery. The best judgment and knowledge of the ma¬ 
terial and of the processes are necessary in order to 
discriminate between the two. 

Crepe. A fine, thin fabric of open texture; made of 
cotton. 






THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 17 

Crepe rte Chine. A silk fabric of open texture; soft 
and of good substance. 

Crepon. A fabric made of silk, worsted, or a com¬ 
bination of the two; with raised figures; used for 
ladies’ garments. 

Crush. A plain linen fabric for ladies’ and gentle¬ 
men’s outing suits, towels, etc. 

Irish. Similar to above; made in Ireland. 

|{iissi]iii. A linen fabric made from the fibres of 
Russian flax. 

Wool Crash. This fabric is manufactured to appear 
like linen crash. Is made from somewhat coarse, 
hard, wiry, non-feltable wool, preferably East Indian, 
and usually woven with the cotton weave. Is thor¬ 
oughly scoured; lightly pressed. No finish, otherwise, 
required. 

Cravenette. A fine worsted fabric, doeskin face, 
two ply warp and single filling; of close texture. 
Made showerproof in the finishing processes. The 
following is by Dr. C. O. Webber. 

For a number of years textile fabrics have been in 
the market, chiefly for dress purposes, to which by 
various processes water-repellant properties have 
been imparted. Until comparatively recently such 
fabrics have been somewhat vaguely described as 
showerproof, but at present they are quite commonly, 
though falsely, described as waterproof. This de¬ 
scription is misleading, as the term is used in respect 
of the india rubber-coated waterproof fabrics, and 
whereas the latter are undoubtedly permanently and 
under all conditions waterproof, the former are so 
to a very limited extent only, for a limited time, and 
under rather limited conditions only. 

This is not due so much to the intrinsic difference 
of the materials used in the manufacture of india 
rubber waterproof and showerproof fabrics respec¬ 
tively, as to the essentially different structure of these 
two classes of fabrics. In india rubber waterproof 
fabrics there is no water-repelling action intended, 
or relied upon, the impermeability to water of these 
fabrics depending upon the impermeability of a con¬ 
tinuous film of india rubber. On the other hand, in 
showerproof fabrics no such film is produced; indeed, 
it should not even be aimed at, as this would destroy 
their only specific claim, by virtue of which, under 
certain restricted conditions, they possess any tan¬ 
gible advantage as compared with india rubber 
waterproof fabrics, namely, their porosity, their per¬ 
meability by air. 



18 


EHE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


This last point, which is always strongly empha¬ 
sized by the manufacturers of this kind of fabrics, 
proves, however, at once, that. owinK to this poros¬ 
ity. they cannot be waterproof in the strict sense of 
this word but only water-repellent. This is borne 
out bv the beha\ior of these fabrics on exposure to 
rain. The latter collects upon them in the spheroidal 
form, the form adopted by all liquids upon surfaces 
they cannot wet but the passing of the water 
through the pores of the cloth is prevented by the 
comparatively high surface tension of these water 
globules. Up to this point these showerproof fabrics 
behave, therefore, in effect as waterproof fabrics. But 
if the impact of the falling- raindrops is sufficiently 
strong, or assisted by a high wind, they are forced 
through the pores of the fabric, and this almost in¬ 
variably signalizes the more or less complete break¬ 
down of the waterproof qualities of these fabrics. 
The same effect is produced by a variety of such 
mechanical influences as these fabrics are subject to 
in actual wear, particularly pressure or friction, 
which press the surface moisture into the fabric, with 
the result that the rain now passes through with per¬ 
fect freedom. 

This could only be prevented by forming a con¬ 
tinuous film upon or in the cloth, but this is not 
possible with the materials employed for shower¬ 
proofing. which do not possess sufficient cohesion and 
elasticity for the purpose. The showerproofing effect 
is. therefore, arrived at simply by coating or incrus- 
tuting the threads of the fabrics with some water- 
repellent substance, but leaving the pores unob¬ 
structed. 

The processes by means of which this effect has 
been aimed at are so numerous that a full discussion 
of them would require a very considerable time. Al¬ 
most countless is the number of patents taken out 
tor these processes, and there is still a regular peren¬ 
nial crop of them, the same thing being patented over 
and over again, with no benefit to anybody but the 
royal exchequer. 

The processes employed for showerproofing may be 
divided into two large classes of processes. In the 
first of these the fibre is simply Impregnated or coated 
with some W’ater-repellent hydrocarbon, or wax. In 
the second, a deposit of alumina, or of some colloidal 
aluminium salt, is formed upon the fibre. 

The "Cravenette” process is a typical instance of 



19 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

the first-named class of processes. It consists in the 
treatment of the cloth with a dilute solution of par¬ 
affin wax, or similar hydrocarbons, in petroleum spirit, 
coal-tar naphtha, or benzole, and subsequent pressing' 
of the cloth between hot plates. This impregnation 
of the fibres of the fabric with paraffin wax renders 
them water-repellent, and the water being no longer 
able to wet the textile fibre, it assumes at once 
spheroidal form on coming into contact with it. The 
surface tension, which is the determining condition of 
this spheroidal state, is also the force, an elastic 
stress, counteracting the tendency of the water to 
pass through the open pores of the cloth. It is. there¬ 
fore, obvious that any reduction of the size of the 
pores or meshes of the cloth will tend to increase this 
effect. 

It will be seen from this that this process of 
showerproofing relies upon the same physical princi¬ 
ple upon which depends the possibility of carrying 
water in a sieve. This very well-known lecture ex¬ 
periment is carried out by immersing brass or copper 
gauze in melted vaseline, and allowing subsequently 
the excess to drain off in a water oven. The ex¬ 
tremely tine coating adhering to the wire of the gauze 
is, of course, water-repellent. Any water poured upon 
it at once assumes spheroidal form, with the result 
that the passage of the water through the meshes of 
the gauze is prevented by the force of the surface 
tension, under the influence of which the water acts 
as if it were enclosed in a very fine bladder of India 
rubber. 

The “Cravenette” process has, of course, found vari¬ 
ous imitators, but as it is not my intention to criti¬ 
cise the efficiency of the various processes, it will 
suffice if I say that the principle involved in these 
rival processes is exactly the same as that upon which 
the older process is based, the physical nature of 
which I have been above discussing at some length. 

The second class of showerproofing processes above 
referred to is very large indeed. Common to all is 
the attempt to deposit upon the fibre, or to coat or 
incrustate the fibre with a water-repellent precipitate 
formed in situ. 

The processes belonging to this class, with no nota¬ 
ble exception, utilize all either alumina, or aluminium 
salts, or insoluble soaps in conjunction with a variety 
of indifferent colloidal precipitates. In every case the 




20 


THE AMERICAN 11'EATER. 


effect aimed at depends upon the water-repellent 
qualities of these precipitates. 

The oldest of these processes, which is. however, 
faithfully every year re-patented by somebody or 
other, consists simply in treating the cloth with a 
solution of aluminium acetate, passing through 
wringing: rollers, and drying: upon a tentering ma¬ 
chine. At first sight it is very difficult to under¬ 
stand, or even to believe, that a fabric treated in this 
manner should have any water-repelling properties, 
but the fact itself is undeniable, although the effect 
is none too strong. An explanation of this fact is 
probably to be found in the circumstance that on the 
tentering machine the aluminium acetate is decom¬ 
posed into a highly basic aluminium acetate deposit 
and free acetic acid which is driven off with the water. 
The water-repellent property would therefore have to 
be ascribed to the highly basic aluminium acetate 
rather than to alumina, and I have little doubt that 
this explanation is substantially coirect. 

A very groat improvement of this process is the 
conversion of the aluminium acetate into an alu¬ 
minium soap, preferably an oleate. This is carried 
out by passing the cloth, after padding it in the solu¬ 
tion of aluminium acetate and wringing it. through a 
soap solution, and subsequently washing and drying 
it. A variation of this process giving even a better 
result consists in drying the cloth after padding it 
in the aluminium acetate and passing It then through 
a boiling soap solution. Of course, in this case, we 
obtain a nighly basic alum'nlum soap, but the very 
small amount of fatty acid combining with the 
alumina under these conditions appears to be quite 
sufficient to produce a very highly water-repellent 
deposit. One considerable advantage of this last form 
of the process is the circumstance that before the 
cloth enters the soap bath the aluminium salt has been 
fixed upon the libre as the insoluble basic salt. Con¬ 
sequently the soap bath shows no muddiness through 
aluminium acetate dissolving out of the fibre and 
forming an Insoluble precipitate in the soap bath, 
which not only leads to considerable waste of valu¬ 
able material, but is also apt to cause irremediable 
stains in the cloth itself. 

The substitution of other aluminium salts, such as 
alum, aluminium sulphate, or chloride, for the some¬ 
what expensive aluminium acetate has been found to 
give very unsatisfactory results. All these substi- 


21 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

tutes, it will be noticed, show only to a very slight 
degree the tendency of the acetate to form basic salts 
by their direct hydrolysis in aqueous solution. It 
would, therefore, appear that the function of the 
aluminium acetate in this process is far more com¬ 
plex than it appears at first sight. 

A further variation of this process consists in form¬ 
ing upon the fibre simultaneously a precipitate of the 
basic aluminium soap and some other insoluble and 
colloidal aluminium salt. As such aluminium silicate 
has been and is used with very good effect. The 
aluminium silicate is. of course, used in one solution 
with the soap. 

Numerous attempts have also been made to lay 
tannic acid under contribution for these processes, 
and every imaginable kind of tannin material has 
been tried. Although there could be no doubt that 
under certain conditions tannic acid may be a useful 
adjunct in showerproofing, the results generally ob¬ 
tained were never satisfactory. During the last two 
years, however, a process has come into prominence 
which not only gives highly satisfactory results, but 
which also possesses several advantages of a tech¬ 
nical nature over the before-discussed processes. 

This process, which is the subject of a number of 
patents, and which is commercially known as the 
K. O. process, consists in the preparation of a 3 per 
cent, solution of aluminum acetate by the inter-action 
of aluminum sulphate and lead acetate in equivalent 
quantities. To this solution a concentrated solution 
of tannic acid is added until a permanent precipitate 
is formed. The actual quantity of tannic acid thus 
required is very small. 

The solution is now ready for use, and is employed 
by passing through it the fabric to be showerproofed, 
squeezing between rollers, and briskly drying on a 
suitable, machine. To obtain the best result it is 
desirable to damp the fabric before treating it. 

It will be observed that before most other processes 
the K. A. process is distinguished by its great cheap¬ 
ness and ease of application. It has the further ad¬ 
vantage of being much more lasting in its effect than 
any of the other processes named. 

The showerproofing processes above described are 
the most important types of the processes at present 
in use, and also of the enormous number of processes 
proposed at various times. Whether they are also the 
best processes possible is perhaps a difficult question 


22 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


to answer. ltut the fact that so far the physical 
nature of the showerproof effect has been very Imper¬ 
fectly understood makes it hig'hly improbable that 
any of our present-day processes should have attained, 
or even approximated to, final perfection. 

The problem to be solved In showerproofing con¬ 
sists in covering the fibres of the fabrics with an 
extremely thin but continuous and water-repellent 
coating It Is quite obvious that crystalloid sub¬ 
stances cannot possibly fulfill these conditions, as 
crystalloid substances are never continuous and for 
this reason we must look to the now very numerous 
case of colloidal substances to furnish us suitable 
material for the purpose of showerproofing. All col¬ 
loids. as a class, yield, under suitable conditions, the 
continuous coatings we require, and there are great 
possibilities contained in the fact that colloids with 
basic properties form absolutely insoluble colloidal 
precipitates with colloids possessing acid properties. 
The K. A. showerproofing process may, indeed, already 
be looked upon as an application of this principle, the 
colloidal aluminum hydrate and the colloidal tannic 
acid forming an insoluble and water-repellent col¬ 
loidal aluminum tannate. 

Nor should it be forgotten that colloids, in combin¬ 
ing with a number ol‘ crystalloid precipitants. form 
not crystalloid, but colloidal, precipitates, a fact 
which enormously enlarges the range of substances 
to be drawn upon for the purpose of these experi¬ 
ments. 

Corduroy. A. thick cotton cloth, corded or ribbed 
on the surface. Extensively used for uniforms by 
certain grades of railroad employees and others. 

C'hloride of Zinc. This is one of those substances 
employed for the purpose of weighting woolen and 
worsted goods, thereby saving the manufacturer large 
sums of money and defrauding the consumer of such 
goods to just that extent It is one of those cases 
where goods are sent to market, but the wool that 
should have been used in the making remains at 
home. 

Cross-Dye*. Fabrics woven in the usual manner of 
various colored yarns, with w'hite for ground. Sub¬ 
sequently dyed in the piece, thereby partly destroying 
the former colorings, but not w'holly. The former 
appears through the latter, giving the fabric a novel 
effect. 




THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

D 

Dnmn.sk. A fabric of silk with raised figures in 
various patterns, as flowers, etc., woven in the loom. 
Originally made at Damascus. Is now made of silk 
intermingled with flax, cotton or wool. 

Dninnsse. A linen fabric made in Flanders in imi¬ 
tation of Damask. 

Damasln. A damask fabric with gold and silver 
flowers, woven in the warp and filling. 

Danish Cloth. This is a fabric manufactured of 
cotton and wool. As, cotton warp and combed wool, 
or mohair filling: usually sold as one-half wool. Is 
used for ladies’ and children’s summer dresses, and 
as bunting for decorative purposes. In solid and vari¬ 
ous colors. 

Debeige. \ dress fabric manufactured of cotton 
warp and mohair or wool filling, which is dyed in the 
raw and mixed in the thread. 

Denim. A coarse cotton cloth used for overalls 
and linings for heavy clothing. 

Delaine. This stands for the finest woolen dress 
goods for ladies’ wear. The French for wool. 

Doeskin. A compact cloth made from fine woolen 
or worsted yarn in a manner to show the greater 
portion of the warp on face of goods, giving the cloth 
a smooth, soft and even feel, which can only be 
brought out in the finishing processes. 

Doineck. An English term for an inferior grade of 
damask. 

DometR. A plain cloth of which the warp is cotton 
and the filling woolen yarn. 

Dornie. A coarse sort of damask made at Turney 
(in Flemish. Dornick) and used for hangings; also a 
kind of table linen made at the same place. 

Double-cloth. A cloth where two pieces are bound 
together by intersections to make it thicker, such as 
overcoating, cloaking, plaid-backs, and nearly all 
heavy goods. A cloth of double consistence. Two 
converted into one by means of the weave. 

Duck. A coarse cotton cloth of close texture for 
gentlemen's summer clothing. Named from Torgue in 
Normandy 

Diaper. A figured linen fabric woven in flowers; a 
towel or napkin; an infant’s breech cloth. 

Dimetle. A very strong cotton fabric of open tex¬ 
ture, sometimes raised figures. Made in Ireland as 
“Irish Dimetie.” 


24 THE AMERICAS WEAVER . 

Oruhbet*. A coarse linen fabric or duck made at 
Barnsley. 

DreMN-itoud*. A term applied to all fabrics in 
general for the outer garments for women’s wear; 
most commonly to those of mixed material. Also 
applicable to piece silks, printed linens and calico. 

Drill. A heavy coarse cotton cloth. 

* E 

extract. This is a material obtained from pieces of 
cloth of questionable character. Is then subjected to 
the carbonizing process to destroy the vegetable 
fibres in the composition. It is very short, but owing 
to its fine staple is often used in high priced goods. 
Goods made of this material are always tender in the 
direction of the cloth in which it is found. Usually 
flllingwise Not infrequently in both directions. 

F.nrl of Coventry and West Hiding Super Tatter- 
unlls. A high grade woolen waistcoating. 

RiantIc. A fabric having the power to return to its 
normal position after extension. Made of silk and 
cotton. 

Hnrtli. Relates to fuller’s earth, used for cleansing 
and softening all kinds of woolen goods. Is used dur¬ 
ing the finishing process. Also prevents goods losing 
in weight during this stage of manufacture. 

Kldrrdown. A species of flannel with long velvety 
nap on surface, like the down of the Eider duck. 

Ermine. An animal of the genus mustela M. 
ermina, allied to the weasel. Fur purely white In 
winter; tip of tail intensely black throughout the 
year; used for decorating ladies’ dresses, as: “Her 
velvet dress was trimmed witli Brussels lace, and 
ends in a court train eleven yards long. The train 
consists of more than five hundred ermine skins, the 
largest number ever brought together for a single 
dress.” 

Elfklna. This refers to a three-ply cloth, long, 
curly surface. Some of this class composed of all new 
wool; others, in part, of substitute. 

F 

Fabric. Silks, and other fine cloths of the East. 

Faille. A fabric made of silk. 

Fancy Novelties. A woven fabric, usually unlike 
any other. New: novel; striking. To be worn during 
season for which it is made. Not staple. Not to be 
depended on as permanently seasonable, or stylish. 


25 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

Fancy Flannel. Relates to flannel, but of more 
than one color. In stripes, checks and plaids. Suit¬ 
able for outing' suits. Light weight satinets are often 
printed and sold as woolen flannel in these garments. 

Fancy Twills. Twills variegated by the trahspo- 
sition of themselves or in combination with others. 

Fiaeone. A heavy woolen fabric with long velvety 
surface. Some of these are manufactured from the 
finest lambs’ wool. Used for overgarments. 

Flannel. A woolen fabric; open twilled or plaih; 
made from pulled wool, wool noils, etc. 

Foulard. A thin, open texture of silk or cotton; 
originally brought from India; is used for ladies’ and 
children’s dresses. 

Fustians. A coarse twilled cotton cloth; including 
corduroy, velveteen and the like; 

Flocks. Flocks are short fibres that have been 
removed from yarn or cloth during the processes of 
manufacture, such as loom, dresser, spooler, fulling 
mill, gig and shear; are invariably short; also pieces 
of cloth, old rags ground to this length. This is 
applied to reverse side of cloth by means of heat, 
moisture and pressure, heat; created inside the full¬ 
ing mill by the constant motion of the cloth. Mois¬ 
ture; soap being applied to facilitate the shrinking or 
felting. Pressure; heavy rolls through which the 
cloth is carried during this process. Flocks may be 
all new wool fibres; may also be made from old rags 
that are all wool; or may be a mixture of the two. 
It is used extensively on many kinds of goods; “even 
fine worsteds are no exception” for the purpose of 
giving weight (at a minimum of cost) and a soft and 
full feel to cloth. Will invariably shed during ser¬ 
vice. Franklin’s maxim. “Look on t’other side, Jim,” 
is applicable here. 

Fil dc Sole. This is a mercerized cotton fabric of 
lustrous appearance. For ladies’ dresses and waists. 
It is not silk. Silk cannot be mercerized. 

G 

Garter. An elastic band for holding the stockings 
to the limbs, to prevent their falling or slipping 
down. 

Game. A cotton fabric of open texture; first pro¬ 
duced at Gaza, Palestine. 

Gimps. A summer garment; also, trimmings for 
ladies’ dresses. 

Gingham. A cotton fabric in stripes, plaids and 


THE AMERICAN W EAVER. 


2 (> 

checks. First produced in Gingamp, England. 

Goblin. A thin, cotton dross fabric; for ladies' and 
children's drosses. 

Grenadine. A fire silk fabric of open texture; used 
for ladies’ drosses, shawls, etc. 

(>ro*eraln. Refers to a thick, stout, closely woven 
silk fabric. Used in many compound words for silk 
good*. 

Golf-cloth. Usually a coarse, open texture of 
carded woolen yarn; woven on the four or six har¬ 
ness even twill. Some of this class is manufactured 
of exceedingly line wool, and all grades are usually 
fancy, novel and of striking effects; made so by 
blendings of many colors and fancy weaving effect. 

H 

Hair-cloth. A fabric of cloth made from hair, or in 
part. Used for the covering of furniture seats, such 
as chairs, sofas, cushions, etc.; also used extensively 
in making coats. Others for coarse garments. 

Ilnir-llnc. A worsted, woolen, cotton or silk fabric 
in which the threads cross each other in such a 
manner as to form fine lines running with the length 
of piece. Imitutions of this, as also many other 
so-called woolen goods are brought out by the print¬ 
ing machine, and so good in appearance is the coun¬ 
terfeit that dissection only can disclose it. 

llonrlot to. A fine fabric of close texture: manufac¬ 
tured of fine bottony worsted yarn; piece dyed; for 
ladies’ wear. 

Home-spun. A woolen fabric in imitation of those 
fabrics made before the innovation of textile machin¬ 
ery; as spun by hand; coarse, rough and uneven 
thread; usually of plnin weave and no felting; hard 
feel. 

Hop-sticking. This is a carded woolen fabric of 
the plainest kind. Woven on the plain or cotton 
weave and of light weight. Very little finish. Used 
for women’s and children's dresses. 

I 

Irl«h Frl«e. A heavy woolen cloth manufactured 
at the Blue Bell, lnchicore and Lucan Woolen, on the 
Liffey. Ireland. Made from coarse, long stapled, 
strong wool. Finished with long, sharp nap on sur¬ 
face. Ts reasonably waterproof. Used for overcoats 
where hard service is required. 

Italian Cloth. A fabric of close texture made of 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 27 

cotton warp and worsted filling', and is used as lin¬ 
ing in the manufacture of garments. 

India Shawl. This refers to Daca; Delhi; Bombay; 
Calcutta and Umritzer; names after the districts in 
which made; an exceedingly fine shawl for ladies. 
The material from which these shawls are made is a 
fibre called touz, from a goat of a particular species, 
frequenting the valley of Cashmere and the neigh¬ 
boring mountains of Thibet, and is a soft, woolly 
undercoat of grayish hair. These shawls must not be 
confounded with those as machine made. 

J 

Jean*. A fabric manufactured extensively in the 
southern states; of cotton warp and wool filling. 

K 

Kendal Careen. A species of green cloth made at 
Kendal. 

Kersey. A heavy woolen cloth, made with the 
cotton weave, or cross-twill for face; and cotton 
weave, or four harness satin for back, and may be 
made with one thread for face and one thread for 
back in the warp; and two threads for face and one 
for back in the filling; or, four threads for face and 
two threads for back in the filling. Originally made 
from fine merino lambs’ wool for face and somewhat 
coarser grade for back. This stock gives an elegant 
face. Laid wide in loom and severely felted in both 
length and width. The cheaper grades are manufac¬ 
tured from a fine fibred wool and shoddy, with low 
grades of shoddy and mungo for back. 

Kerseymere. A thin woolen fabric. Generally 
manufactured from fine wool. A light weight kersey. 

Kerseynette. Like kerseymere. More often like 
cassinette. 

Kelt ‘‘Scotch.** A woolen cloth, with the nap gener¬ 
ally that of the black native wool. 

Khnki. A worsted, woolen or cotton cloth dyed in 
the loose fibre, or piece, of a peculiar fawn-color. 

Khaki Dyeing. 

FAST KHAKI SHADES. 

Leather-colored khaki shades vary from yellow to 
greyish-red and are sometimes produced by combina¬ 
tions of the substantive dyes, and sometimes from 
dyewoods, such as catechu, quercitron, and logwood. 
As a rule, however, the fastness is not satisfactory, 



28 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

and while the substantive dyes fail in resisting light 
or acid, the dyewoods are not fast enough to wash¬ 
ing. and after finishing ure not fast to acid. 

The chamois colors with chrome, says the Textile 
Manufacturer, are, however, fast to light and wash¬ 
ing, and to make them thoroughly fast to mineral 
acids it is sufficient to add a Turkey-red oil bath to 
the ordinary dyeing process, and then to cause the 
oil to combine with the metallic oxiues by steaming 
under pressure. 

The details and the process are as follows: The 
well-scoured or half-bleached goods are taken on the 
jigger through a bath containing 2 per cent, of its 
value of sulphate of iron 45 deg. Be., and to every 22 
gals., 25 lbs. of chrome alum, previously dissolved in 
water, as w'ell as from three-quarters to a whole pint 
of pyroligneate of iron, for the gray shade, are added. 
Pass the goods through this about six times. Next 
turn the roll upside down to distribute the mordant 
evenly, and after half an hour pass through twice 
more. 

Then enter immediately into a hot bath of 1/2 lb. 
of soda to the gallon. Give three passes through this. 
Then wash dry, and pass through the Turkey-oil bath, 
which contains 20 per cent, of Turkey-red oil. con¬ 
taining 30 per cent, of castor oil. Then dry and steam 
one hour at 7 lbs. per square inch. Finish as usual, 
but remember that oil has been already added. The 
process can of course be carried out in a machine. 

The following recipes give a guide for the produc¬ 
tion of the various shades. All are for 22 gals, a 
bath: (1.) Reddish-yellow: 3 1/2 pints persulphate of 
iron 45 dog. Be.. 27 lbs. chrome alum, and from 3/4 to 
1 pint pyroligneate of iron 12 deg. Be. (2.) Yellow¬ 
ish-green' 1 3/4 pint ferric sulphate 45 deg. Be., 20 
lbs. chrome alum, and from 3/4 to 1 pint pyroligneate 
of iron 12 deg. Be. (3.) Intermediate colors: 1 3/4 
pint ferric sulphate and 30 lbs. chrome alum; or 1 3/4 
pint ferric sulphate, 20 lbs. chrome-alum, and 3 1/2 
pints pyroligneate of iron; or 1 1/4 pint ferric sul¬ 
phate, 25 lbs. chrome alum, and 1/2 pint pyroligneate 
of iron. 

Khaki Test. 1. Sunlight. 2. Boil for ten minutes 
in solution of soap, SO grains of ordinary laundry 
soap to one pint of water. Wash with warm water 
and soap. 3. Boil for ten minutes in solution of soda. 
40 grains of washing soda to one pint of water. 4. 
Steep for five hours in feroxide of hydrogen ten vols. 





20 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

strength. 5 Steep for five hours in citric acid solu¬ 
tion of three drams of acid to two fluid ounces of 
cold water. 

Kttalnm Knr. A hand painted cloth of India. 

Khalnm Kar. Its manufacture and use. The com¬ 
petition of mill-made European cloth has not only 
affected hand-weaving, but also crippled all the 
ancient Indian industries connected therewith. The 
trade in khalam kar, or hand-painted cloths, which 
was once flourishing in Bandar (Masulipatam). Cud- 
dalore and other places, has of late steadily declined. 
The famines of recent years have also helped to stamp 
out this decaying industry, by contributing to the 
poverty of the classes engaged in it. As a class, 
weavers and painters of cloth are rarely well-to-do. 
the majority of them being in the hands of the 
usurious cloth merchants, who take their finished 
goods in repayment of advances made to them. In 
famine years, the celebration of marriages being re¬ 
tarded, the demand for cloth of all kinds is dimin¬ 
ished . and very often the weavers and the cloth 
printers have to give up their looms and brushes for 
field labor or some other occupation. On the return 
of favorable times, most of them return to their pro¬ 
fessions from the out-door labor, while others, either 
owing to want of sufficient encouragement in the 
trade, or the loss, to a certain degree, of their pro¬ 
fessional skill and delicacy, abjure the craft alto¬ 
gether. The State! of course intervenes to help such 
persons to tide over the famine, but that cannot lead 
to the material development of the industry or to a 
substantial amelioration of its condition. The one 
satisfactory remedy seems to lie in finding a market 
for it. 

Khalam-kar cloths cannot be placed in competition 
with European productions of a similar character, 
which, tfo early as the days of the Moghul Emperor 
Akbar, attracted the remark of being “the wonderful 
works of the European painters of world-wide fame.” 
But the boldness of the designs, with the careful 
draughtsmanship of the minutest details, and their 
general finish and harmonious coloring, give them a 
fascination of their own, and this, taken with their 
cheapness, would necessarily find them favor in the 
eyes of many purchasers, if they could only be intro¬ 
duced in merchantable quantities into Europe. They 
can be utilized as table-cloths, bed-sheets, curtains, 
and other articles. 





THE AMERICAN WE ACER. 


.SO 


The process of making those cloths is remarkably 
primitive and simple. The ilrst stage in the process 
is the preparation of the cloth for the painting. This 
is done as follows- A sufficient quantity of gall nut 
is powdered and boiled in water, and the sediment is 
removed; after which one-fourth measure of buffalo's 
milk, or one-half measure of cow's milk, is mixed 
with water: the cloth is then put into it and satu¬ 
rated; and after a time it is taken out, strained and 
allowed to dry. It is subsequently folded and beaten 
down with a dyer’s block. The cloth is now ready 
for purposes of painting. The painter takes a quan¬ 
tity of alum and boils it in water. With this solu¬ 
tion, which gives a pale dark color, flowers and other 
objects are drawn artistically with a brush or printed 
with a block on the cloth. The cloth is now dried 
and gently washed in water. It is then boiled in 
water with pounded roots of nuna (Morinda umbal- 
lattal. During the continuance of the boiling process, 
which lasts for nearly three hours, the cloth is fre¬ 
quently stirred up w-ith a stick. It is then taken out 
and left to cool. When cooled it is immersed in water 
mixed with sheep dung, and immediately taken out. 
It is again washed well, and dried by spreading for 
nearly six hours over the damp sand in the river bed. 
This process renders the vacant spaces between the 
Mowers white. The white portions are then colored 
with dyes of local manufacture, or with any European 
dye after it has been boiled with gall-nut water. 
White and black are believed by the Hindus to be the 
origin of all colors and are looked upon as extremes, 
and as the component parts of the other colors. In¬ 
digenous black color is obtained by burning pieces 
of old iron in dry plantain leaves, and then boiling 
them in water with sugar-cane jaggery and pounded 
marking nut ‘Seinicarpus Anacardium). Yellow is 
manufactured by dissolving Bengal saffron with 
aplakaram. a substance akin to soda and boiled in 
water with call-nut “Mowers." 

Green color is obtained by dissolving pure indigo 
in similarly treated water. Other colors are prepared 
by similar devices, and each color is painted in sep¬ 
arately. Finally, the cloths are soaked in boiled rice 
water and strained. They are then ready for the 
market. 

The price of a bed-sheet of khalam-kar ranges 
from Rs. 1 1/2 to Rs. 2. It is durable and of fast 
color, and is commonly used by Mussulmans of Singa- 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 31 

pore and Sumatra, and other places. In India it is 
largely in demand on marriage occasions, when it is 
used by the middle classes as a covering, or palang- 
posh [Anglice “palampore”]. It is also largely utilized 
in the decoration of Hindu cars. This art was appar¬ 
ently introduced into India by the Mo(n)gols from 
Persia, and in the days of Akbar, who showed a great 
predilection for the art of painting in all its applica¬ 
tions. and gave it considerable encouragement. Abul 
Faz writes that the work of all painters was weekly 
laid before the Emperor, and they were rewarded 
according to the excellence of their workmanship; 
and that in this way much progress was made in the 
commodities required by painters, and that the mix¬ 
ture of colors was especially improved. 

Although the Mussulman religion prohibits drawing 
of likenesses of living objects, yet Akbar, with his 
wonted liberality of thought, not only encouraged the 
art of such painting, but even censured those who 
had, on religious grounds, imbibed a hatred for it. 
One day, at a private party of friends, the Emperor 
is said to have remarked: “There are many that 
hate paintings: but such men I dislike. It appears to 
me that a painter has quite peculiar means of recog- 
nizimr God—for a painter, in sketching anything that 
has life, and devising its limbs one after the other— 
must come to feel that after all he cannot bestow life 
upon his work, and is thus forced to think of God, 
the Giver of life, and will thus increase in knowledge 
of God.” 

It is to be hoped that the khalam-cloths may find a 
market in England, and Europe and America, in 
which case that vanishing industry will be resusci¬ 
tated in India, and thus a portion at least of the 
Indian population, whose sole occupation is agricul¬ 
ture—will be better able to withstand the calamities 
to which they are recurringly exposed in seasons of 
scarcity.—Boston Journal of Commerce. 

Ivnlkl Silk. This relates to a species of silk fabrics 
ornamented with thick cotton cbrds, in various in¬ 
stances forming a stripe; and, in some cases, a check 
or plaid effect. These cotton cords are covered up in 
the weaving, so that to the uninitiated the fabric 
has the appearance of being wholly composed of silk 
and is on this account often sold as such. 

Knickerbocker. This refers to a fabric that may 
be manufactured of all wool or its many combinations, 
as also all cotton. Is woven of yarn irregular in size. 


THE AMERICAN WE ACER. 


31 


Nubby; bunchy; knotty. Is a novelty. Not staple. Is 
used for Indies' dresses; also for gentlemen’s outing 
suits. 

L 

LmNdownr. A fine silk fabric of close texture. 

The Queen of all Indies’ dress goods. 

I.nnn. A very fine fabric manufactured from Sea 
Island cotton 

Lawn, Persia. A very fine linen fabric for ladies’ 
garments. 

I.tnen. Those fabrics made from flax fibres; as 
linen; linen crash, linen towels; linen napkins and the 
like. 

Linen, India. The finest linen fabric; for ladies’ 
wear. 

Linings. Usually applied to all fabrics used for the 
Inner covering of garments; as: sateen; mohair; 
worsted; silk; serge; lasting; cotton, etc. All of close 
texture. 

Lltisey Woolsey. As the narna implies. A union of 
linen and wool; of different and unsuitable parts; a 
fabric first made at Dlnsey, and was for a time a very 
popular fabric. “Johnson." 

I.nee. A fabric of fine threads of silk, linen or 
cotton, interwoven in a net, and often ornamented 
with figures. A delicate tissue of thread. Worn as 
an ornament, by ladies. 

London Super lire** WhIm toon ting. An exceed¬ 

ingly fine line of fancy silk fabrics for waistcoats. 

Likesllk. This refers to an ordinary black cotton 
fabric, stamped with this name. Does not compare 
with silk; is not like silk. An article to be like silk 
must be silk. 

Lingerie. This relates to all sorts of ladies’ and 
children’s undergarments, such ns skirts, underskirts, 
etc.; infants’ short dresses; stockings, neckwear, 
chemises, nightrobes, drawers, corset covers, etc. 

M 

Mackintosh Clotli. * Any worsted, woolen or cotton 
cloth waterproofed by the Mackintosh process of coat¬ 
ing such fabric with a waterproof composition. The 
cloth is first manufactured in the regular manner, is 
then run through the coating-machine where the 
rubber composition is automatically and evenly ap¬ 
plied. Subsequently, the pieces, one the outside and 
the other the inner side, or lining, are united, first 
by running both gummed or coated sides together 


33 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

between heavy rolls and is tightly wound onto 
wooden shaft or roll. Is then subjected to what is 
called the baking process. The intense heat causes 
the composition to liquefy and thus permeate every 
intersection and vulcanize the two fabrics into one. 
This done, it is removed and allowed to cool, when it 
is ready for the garment cutter. In textile fabrics 
this is the only one to be relied upon as absolutely 
waterproof. Named after its inventor. Mackintosh. 

Madras. A very fine, light cotton fabric; fancy 
raised cords running lengthwise of piece; of open tex¬ 
ture. 

Marseilles. A heavy cotton cloth woven in figures, 
and is used as a bed covering. Named from Mar¬ 
seilles, France, from whence they first came. 

McKinley Cloth. A very fine worsted fabric, of 
close texture, manufactured by the Hockamun Co., 
Rockville, Conn. Made expressly for the inaugural 
suit for Mr. \Ym. McKinley. President of the United 
States 1896-1901 A. D. 

Melton. A class of woolen cloth manufactured from 
a high felting quality wool. It is similar to a kersey 
in all respects except finish. The best of this class Is 
known as Carr Melton. See that your coat is stamped 
inside with manufacturer’s name. The one essential 
point in addition to the selection of a fine grade of 
wool is time in finishing. These should lay one hun¬ 
dred inches in reed, be well woven, thoroughly 
scoured and lightly gigged before fulling. A felt thus 
obtained will prevent fraying at the edges, which ob¬ 
jectionable feature is so common in many of this 
class of goods. To produce the effect in the cheaper 
and cheapest grades, merino shoddy or extract is used 
in place of new wool. See extract under “Shoddy.” 

Mercerized Silk. This is but a trade-name adopted, 
no doubt, to mislead by adding the word “silk.” be- 
cav.se of the resemblance of this cotton fabric to silk. 
It is c otton, pure and simple, treated with caustic soda 
and other chemicals to produce a high lustre and thus 
create the resemblance. To obtain the lustre, either 
level or in waves, the following explains. 

MERCERIZING. 

A German patent protects a process for lustring 
short-stapled and loosely-spun cotton, and for getting 
a better lustre than heretofore on long-stapled cotton 
by mercerization under tension. This is effected by 
twisting the cotton specially tightly for merceriza- 


34 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


tion, and then, after mercerlzation, untwisting: it till 
it has the right twist for the subsequent processes. 
The process gives a wavy-crlnkled yarn which can be 
used for many effects, or the waviness may be pre¬ 
vented by untwisting the mercerized cotton before 
drying it. 

A machine has recently been patented which mer¬ 
cerizes cloth on one side only, thus preventing the 
fabric as a whole from shrinking. The fabric passes 
between two rollers, one of iron, the other of India 
rubber, the iron roller dipping into a trough contain¬ 
ing the mercerized lye. This is made very cold by a 
system of refrigerating pipes, while in the deepest 
part of the trough stirrers are placed, which move 
when the machine is in action, their object being to 
prevent the lye from freezing. The t-rough can be 
removed and replaced by another without interfering 
with the cooling arrangement. The Inside of the iron 
roller is kept cold with refrigerated brine, and the 
India rubber roller is so arranged that its pressure on 
the iron roller can be regulated. The goods are pre¬ 
vented from shrinking by this nip between the rollers 
and afterwards being wrapped round the India rubber 
rollers: they are then rinsed a short time after mer¬ 
cerlzation. At the temperature used (below zero C.) 
the process is very rapid, so that a single machine 
will mercerize up to 25,000 yards a day. The lustre 
got is said to be extremely fine, there is great econ¬ 
omy of lye. and the machine requires no special sknl 
on the part of its attendant. The great difference 
between this and former processes of mercerizing at 
very low temperatures is that, with them, the cooling 
took place after the application of the lye. the goods 
being cooled while under tension and after impreg¬ 
nation with the caustic soda.—Trade Journals’ Re¬ 
view. 

It does not require a long stretch of the imagination 
to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion that the mer¬ 
chant often has to pay excessive prices for the ap¬ 
pearance of a fabric, and he, in turn, has to charge 
such to his customers. 

MofT. A silk fabric made in Caucasia. 

Mohair. The long silky hair of the Angora goat of 
Asia Minor. A species of which are being Introduced 
into the United States. (2) All those fabrics manu¬ 
factured from mohair. If made from pure material, 
the fabric has a high lustre. 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 35 

Mohair Serge. A fabric of medium texture, usu¬ 
ally twilled, made from mohair. Hard, wiry feel. 

Moreens. A fabric with a watered finish. 

Mull. A thin, soft kind of muslin; from Mossul. 

Muslin. A thin kind of cotton fabric of any kind. 

Muslin de (.nine. A woolen fabric of light texture; 
also a like fabric of cotton and wool. Used for ladies’ 
dresses, etc. 

Mnneel. A fabric manufactured from cotton and 
paper: fine, cotton warp and paper spun to fine thread 
for filling. Watered finish. Resembles high-class 
moreens, and suitable for like purpose. 

Mungo. A material produced by the rag-picker 
from hard felted pieces of cloth; and also from old 
rags gathered from many sources. The fibres are of 
uncertain quality, as these pieces of cloth may already 
have in its composition shoddy and mungo. The best 
authorities agree that it is a very poor grade of 
shoddy and devoid of felting properties; properties the 
most valuable in wool fibres. 

MuMlinette. A coarse cotton cloth; a coarse muslin. 

Mlllbury Casslmere. A trade name given a cloth 
claimed to be all wool at fifty cents per 1/4 yard. 

Moleskin. A species of fabric of the highest grade 
merino lambs’ wool; firm, leathery feel; fine, close and 
thick nap on surface. Like the skin of the mole; also 
a silk or cotton warp moleskin. An exceedingly fine 
fabric for riding-breeches for gentlemen. 

Moutngnac. This is a heavy cloth with a curly and 
wavy surface. The finest grade is manufactured from 
the finest merino lambs’ wool for the body of cloth 
and camels’ hair for the face. The next finest grade 
of like wool and the finest cashmere stock obtainable. 
These two may well be considered the cream of fab¬ 
rics for an overgarment for either lady or gentle¬ 
man. Unfortunately, there are many cheap substi¬ 
tutes sold under this name that do not even bear 
resemblance to the genuine. These are manufactured 
of inferior stock for the body of cloth, and mohair- 
noils for the surface. 

N 

Nainsook. A thick sort of jaconet muslin; plain or 
striped: formerly made in India. A number of grades. 

Nankeen. A species of cloth of fine close texture; 
originally manufactured at Nankeen, China. Made of 
a species of cotton of a natural yellow color quite in¬ 
destructible and permanent. (2) An imitation of this 
by artificial coloring. 



THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


36 


Napkin. A little towel; a cloth for wiping or dry¬ 
ing the mouth, especially at table. Linen, or cotton. 

Nettle-cloth. A kind of thick. cotton cloth; 
japanned and prepared to be employed as a substitute 
for leather for which it is often used. 

Nolls. The short and curly fibres of silk. wool, 
camels’ hair, mohair and cotton, separated from the 
long fibres by certain processes in manufacture, as 
combing Silk noils, consumed chielly in the manu¬ 
facture of ladles’ dress fabrics, towels, etc. Wool 
noils, employed mixed with pulled wool, in the manu¬ 
facture of ladies’ dress fabrics, ilannels, fine blankets, 
etc. Camels’ hair and mohair noils nre employed in 
the manufacture of ladies’ fine dress fabrics, cloak¬ 
ings: and. to some extent in fine overcoatings mohair 
noils of very fine grade are employed. Cotton noils 
are used extensively in mixing with shoddy and 
mungo. in the manufacture of the cheaper grades of 
cassimere. as also for coarse cotton cloth. In fact 
there is no fibre of any length of the foregoing that 
is not used in some of the many textile fabrics in 
some manner. In some cases of no value whatever 
to the wearer of garments made from cloth contain¬ 
ing same. 

O 

Object Lesson. This refers to results obtained with 
the various tests for the discovery of adulterants in 
woolen and worsted fabrics, as explained in this book. 

Oil-cloth. A heavy cotton cloth; oiled, painted or 
printed in design; for the covering of tables, mantels, 
shelves, floors, and for other uses. 

Organxlne. A kind of thrown silk of fine texture; 
is usually twisted with some other thread to give it 
strength, and is frequently employed in the manufac¬ 
ture of fine worsteds and cassimeres in both stripes 
and checks. Of late, silkeen, a mercerized cotton, has 
been substituted therefor, and nothing but a test will 
reveal the deception. 

Oris. A peculiar pattern in which gold and silver 
lace are worked; the edges being ornamented with 
conical figures placed at equal distances, with spots 
between them. "Simmonds." 

Overcoating. A term applied to all heavy cloths 
used for this purpose, even though otherwise classi¬ 
fied. As: whip-cord; doeskin: kersey: beaver; mel¬ 
ton; chinchilla; frieze; box-cloth; broad-cloth, etc. 

Oxford >llx. A blend or mix of black and white. 


37 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

As: 80 per cent, of black and 20 per cent, of white; 
may be made dark or light in blend as required, by 
\arying the percentage of each. 

OUR CROTHES. 

We cannot deny, we womenkind, that we are hap¬ 
pier, more confident, and better prepared to face the 
world if we are conscious of being really well dressed. 
One of us has been even bold enough to express this 
sentiment to a bishop. Appearance means so much, 
and half the battle is won if we make a favorable 
impression. A certain old Roman orator, Hortentius, 
gave as much thought to his toga as he did to his 
oration, and though it is a fact, we should hardly 
any of us have given Daniel Webster the credit for 
always appearing in a new suit of clothes whenever 
he addressed the Senate. There is a moral side to 
the question. It is said that we are better able to 
meet temptation when we are self-respecting, and 
how can anybody respect themselves when they are 
out at elbow and shabby? Certainly not the modern 
woman. We have never studied appearances more 
than we do in this twentieth century. It is a great 
test of breeding, not so much to be fashionably 
dressed, as to be carefully arrayed.—N. Y. World. 

In connection herewith it may not be out of place 
to state, that, brass may b<# given a polish as high as 
gold. Docs appearance make it so? 

P 

Pallium. A narrow, long strip of white lambs’ 
wool, which is worn by the Pope, round the neck and 
figure, terminating over the left shoulder both back 
and front. Adorned with a golden cross at the two 
ends. 

Pnrnmttn. A fine fabric originally made of Par- 
matta wool warp and silk filling. 

Percale. A fine, closely woven, film fabric of cot¬ 
ton; used for ladies’ summer dresses. 

Pleee-dyeM. All cloth dyed in the piece after being 
woven. 

Pin-check*. All fabrics showing small pin-head 
checks in two or more colors. 

Pique. A fine, figured cotton fabric used as dress 
goods for ladies’ wear; also for gentlemen’s summer 
trousers and vests. 

Plaid-back. A class of heavy, woolen, double 
cloth, extensively used for ladies’ over-garments. 





THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


3b 

Usually the upper surface of one color; reverse side 
plaidod in a number of other colors. 

I'arkn. This is the designation given the finest and 
most beautiful costume made of the reindeer fur; 
spotted and dappled; the edgeB being bordered with 
red fox fur. Worn on special occasions only by Mary 
Makridoff. Eskimo Queen of Alaska. Commonly 
called reindeer queen. 

Plush. A textile fabric with a sort of velvet nap 
on the surface. As: silk plush; cotton plush. 

Pongee. An inferior kind of India silk. “Webster." 

1’ongee Silk. A fabric made from an inferior kind 
of Inoia silk. Not a cheap fabric. 

Poplin. A fabric of silk and worsted; of many 
varieties; as. watered, brocaded, etc. Imitations are 
produced by the finishing processes alone so close as 
to deceive good judges at times. 

Popllnette. A tine fabric manufactured from silk, 
and also from silk and worsted. 

Plnn Mmm! in. An exceedingly fine fabric of close 
texture; produced from the fibres of the pineapple. 
The finest of this class are made at Bengal. 

Print-cloth. Itaw cotton goods woven expressly 
for printing. 

Prints. Cotton goods, printed; or calico. 

Prunncllo. A smooth woolen cloth, generally black, 
the color of prunes; used for making shoes or gar¬ 
ments. 

Pntcnt Toe. This expression relates to hosiery, and 
is misleading, in that it does not refer to any kind of 
a toe that is patented. It is simply a slang expres¬ 
sion used by the trade, and refers to the toe that is 
used on very cheap seamless hosiery, and is sewed 
up by a sewing-machine, instead of being done on 
the looper, making a difference in cost of about five 
cents per dozen. A. W. R. 

R 

Ratine. A very heavy woolen cloth of double or 
triple consistence, in many respects like Flacone; 
finished by special machinery. 

Rep. A fabric having a surface appearing as if 
corded, or of a cord-like appearance; applied to a 
certain style of silks and dress goods. Probably cor¬ 
rupted from rib. (2) A heavy silk fabric of close 
texture. 

Rcpellfints. A cloth manufactured from cotton 
warp and wool filling; formerly known as waterproof. 



THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 39 

Usually woven on the repellant weave or three har¬ 
ness twill. 

S 

Sateen. A kind of glossy fabric for women’s 
dresses, resembling satin, but having a worsted in¬ 
stead of silken face. 

Satin. A lustrous silk fabric; of a thick, close 
texture and overshot filling. 

Satinet. A fabric or cloth composed of cotton warp 
and, usually shoddy or mungo filling. This is a de¬ 
generate of the once national fabric made and sold 
by Arthur Schofield, of Pittsfield, Mass. 

This class of goods is made in the regular manner 
and of various colors. Is subsequently put through 
the printing process, where it is converted into cassi- 
meres by giving the fabric the appearance of a fine 
twill; small checks or squares; hair lines; pencil 
stripes, etc. The ground color is furnished from the 
mill; all other color effects arc printed; sometimes 
but one side; usually both. 

To ascertain whether the color runs through the 
thread as is the case in dyeing, or only on the sur¬ 
face, as is the case in printing, remove, or attempt to 
remove such a colored thread; now untwist and care¬ 
fully note the condition; this done observe whether 
the same colored thread on the reverse side comes di¬ 
rectly under the one removed and proceed as before. 
If the threads cannot be removed for examination take 
the point of knife blade and scrape out that thread, 
and if said color is but on the surface it is unmis¬ 
takable evidence that the fabric has been printed. 

Piece dyes are better than printed, and wool dyes 
are better than piece dyed goods. “This refers to 
woolen goods.” 

Sntlnette. A cheap imitation satin. 

Seersucker. A fine, closely woven fabric of silk or 
cotton; of crimpy structure produced in the finishing. 

Sellsin. A coton fabric of fine texture; glossy face 
finish. 

Serge. An open twilled, worsted fabric; usually 
piece dyed black or blue. Manufactured from long 
stapled, fine, medium and coarse hard-fibred non-felt- 
able wool; the opposite to bottany. Also from fine me¬ 
dium and coarse mohair. From Xerga, a Spanish 
name for a peculiar blanket 

Serviette. A linen napkin for table. 

Sheeting. A cotton fabric used as part of the bed 


40 


THE' AMERICAN WEAVER. 

furniture next to the body (2) Brown sheeting, Ilk** 
above, of raw, unbleached cotton yarn. 

Shetland*!. A woolen cloth of close texture for gen¬ 
tlemen's suitings, usually a 45 degree twill to right. 
(2) A heavy “lamb's wool” overcoating with heavy 
fleece or shagg. 

Shirting. All the various fabrics of linen, cotton or 
other materials used for shirts worn by men and boys. 
Seldom now applied to such garments worn by wo¬ 
men.—Webster. 

Shoddy. A general term applied to thos** things in¬ 
ferior in quality to such as they represent, or the 
place of which they usurp for the puipose of cheapen¬ 
ing or degrading, or to deceive the purchaser. Ap¬ 
plied to woolens, shoddy is an article of commerce pro¬ 
duced by machinery fiom waste material produced 
in the various departments in the woolen manufac¬ 
tory: as: soft and hard waste. 

Mungo, another species, is manufactured from all 
kinds of pieces of cloth; such as head-ends in the mill, 
tailors’ clippings, old and worn out garments and 
rags gathered from every source and regardless of the 
materials in the composition. This is but another 
name tot shoddy. 

A case of malignant small-pox has been reported in 
West Springfield, the victim being Miss Henrietta 
Blush, who was employed in the rag room.—B. H., 
1-24-03. 

SHODDY MANUFACTURE. 

From wool to shoddy. 

From shoddy to flock; 

When Reuben won't have you. 

The mattress must. 

The first I saw of that old coat was in a bale of 
rags that came from Chicago; I knew it at once by 
the Tribune’s description. We first put it into the 
duster to get the dust from the “windy city” out of 
it; then gave it some of that light oil that never 
gums to tone it up; then it is passed to the picker; 
now add twenty-five per cent, quarter blood wool and 
a little cotton, and pass it on to the fellow who 
“never strips. ’ Here everything is running automat¬ 
ically. The card boys are all sleeping or lying down, 
the second hand nowhere in sight, and the boss sit¬ 
ting on the bench thinking. The old coat finding it¬ 
self in blooded company with Mr. Cotton from the 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


41 


South, dare not make any kick, but passes through 
without calling on anyone in the room; so on to the 
finishing room, not stopping to see “Tim Bobbin”; 
leaving this progressive mill, it is soon on the road 
to see friend “Tom.” 

He must have nis say now, for I think it is the last 
time the coat will call on him, as it has started on 
the downward course. After leaving our friend 
“Tom” it comes down stairs with a new name and 
ticket for Chicago. Calling at a mill not a thousand 
miles from Meriden one day, I met my old friend, that 
coat again. Well, it had a cyclone shake, and doses 
of emulsion of lard oil, and was looking poorly. So 
after going to the picker, we start it off. this time in 
fancy satinet. Now here is where the trouble starts. 
It don’t like to mix in company with wool waste, and 
won’t come down where the superintendent wants it. 
By stripping cards once a day and rings three or four 
times a day, and keeping everyone on the jump, we 
get it through. The spinner simply put it on the bob¬ 
bins and tried to talk to it, but could not draw it out, 
so it parsed once more on to the finishing room, 
where they fix it up, and start it once more, but not 
to “Tom” this time. It goes to a “Shylock,” who 
will try hard to get it back into its old class. The 
next time I meet my old friend is near Worcester. 
Mass.; it has just come back from Chicago again. He 
was looking pretty rocky, still on a downward course. 
After taking some Bacon emulsion, and calling on 
the picker again, it was introduced to the scapegoat 
in the card room. They were not pleased to see each 
other again, but the carder, stripping his breakers 
twice a day and finisher once, and grinding his first 
breaker every day, keeping everything sharp, not 
having his fancy under the card, sits down close to 
the card, with his shirt sleeves rolled up. His rings 
are set 2P/32 and 31/32 to catch the stock, for the top 
was always a “robber”; Mr. Barker gives the coat a 
good rubbing, and gives it strength to go on his way 
to the spinner. The spinner again tries to draw it 
out. But it says, “No; I go full draft or not at all.” 
So the spinner gives way and it passes along to the 
weave room. Oil! such rotten filling. But by hand¬ 
ling with great care, on narrow loom, three down and 
one up, to give it a good face to go out into the world 
again; with napping and three hours in the fulling 
mill, and generous daubs of speck dye, it is on the 
road again, this time to the coal mines in Pennsyl- 


42 


THE AMERICAS WEAVER. 


vania. But his stay is short. He turns up in Massa¬ 
chusetts again, still being ground downward. But 
with another good drink, we start him off in company 
with a lot of Haragerdown. He feels bad and looks 
bad among a lot of card waste, and Linsey Shaddin 
strips for action by running nil his top work to the 
grinder every day and knocking the dirt out of it. 
But with the help of a good feed in its weak state it 
is pushed along until it reaches the finisher once 
more. It has been on the road so long that, like all 
tramps, it will not take to soap and water any more, 
so that we have to send it to the napper and roll it 
up and send it to New York to have a nice plaid print 
stamped on. Once more it is on the road, this time 
across the “Mason and Dixon line.’* But it doesn't 
like the Tim Crow cars, so that it comes back after 
a few rain storms. This time it turns up in New 
Hampshire. It has been on the cars so much that 
this time it would like to go horseback. So after 
taking another drink and calling on the picker, it 
goes to see that fellow that does not know any more 
than to strip his cards twice a day. and take all his 
top work to the grinder every day. This is a funny 
fellow, for he has all of his rub rolls covered with 
sea sand. The poor old coat has now got so weak 
that we have to run it onto lap drums, and feed it to 
the finisher by hand. Once more it is twisted and 
passed along; once more it is given a plaid look, and 
does street duty until the first rain. Then it knocks 
around the barn for a little while, but isn’t through 
yet. Once more it turns up at a Massachusetts mill 
to see his old friend the picker. But they would not 
give it anything but a drink of water, for they knew 
he was going to Boston to see a man on Hanover 
Street, where he would be tucked away in a nice soft- 
top mattress, and there we will leave him until the 
“Shylock” calls.—Wade’s F. & P. 

Sandow is strong, and so is the odor from goods in 
two mills in the same town in Maine.—“Tom” in 
F. & F. 

‘1 would not accept them for a gift.” said a Shy- 
lock clothier who was staggered by the odor (and 
that is saying a good deal) from sixteen pieces of 
Woonsocket goods.—“Tom” in F. & F. 

THE SHODDY QUESTION. 

With wool now selling at the lowest price of record 
for years—a price that is only about 53 per cent, of 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


43 


that commanded by the product in 1860—there would 
seem to be little or no excuse for keeping the mills at 
work on a class of goods that contains a mere sus¬ 
picion of wool skillfully mixed with cotton, shoddy, 
waste and otner textile adulterants in such a man¬ 
ner as to please the eye, but with a very close ap¬ 
proach to absolute worthlessness. Of course, it may 
reasonably be questioned whether there is ever an 
excuse for making that sort of cloth; but it is as 
clear ns sunlight that the temptation to do it ought 
now to be as small as it can well be. Still, the market 
is flooded with these cheap '‘woolen” goods, and com¬ 
petition appears to be centered, much as usual, not 
on turning out something honest and serviceable and 
good-looking at the. lowest possible price, but on get¬ 
ting the price low. anyway. If those “anti-trust” 
howlers, who used to charge that consolidations and 
combinations put up prices and rob the masses, but 
who now turn about and criticise the American 
Woolen Company for reducing prices because it in¬ 
jures the smaller and outside mills, would only ex¬ 
pend half as much zeal on so educating the “robbed” 
masses that they will refuse to buy fake “woolens” at 
any price, they would be doing both consumers and 
producers a great service. The mill owners are 
hardly to be blamed for manufacturing what a mis¬ 
guided public calls for—and right now would seem to 
be an exceptionally good time to prove that genuine 
“all-wool” goods can be made and sold at attractively 
low prices.—N. Y. Commercial. 

Sound argument this, but the article bears ear¬ 
marks, unmistakable, that the N. Y. Commercial has 
an ax to grind, as there are many mills not men¬ 
tioned, th.at manufacture the highest grades of 
strictly all new wool goods. That, however, the man¬ 
ufacturers and dealers in these secondary materials 
are not disposed to relinquish their hold, but instead, 
grasp it still tighter, on the consumer, is well illus¬ 
trated by the following clipping from F. & F. 

Quite an important event in textile circles in New 
York was the opening of the "Waste and Shoddy Ex¬ 
change” in the Wool Exchange Building. July 23. 
About fifty dealers were present, many of whom were 
provided with samples w hich were placed on the exhibi¬ 
tion tables. Some private sales were made, and at 
12.30 P. M. J. J. Ryan, president, started the auction. 
The first lot of 2,000 lbs. of grey stock was sold at 
8 3/4 cents and by three o’clock a large amount of 


44 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

various hinds of shoddy and wuste had been disposed 
of. including 60,000 lbs. card waste at 3 3/8 cents; 
about the same amount of garnetted merino at 3 1/8 
to 7 cents; 5.000 lbs. wool yarn waste at 7 cents; three 
baps medium white worsted yarn waste at 26 cents. The 
"Waste and Shoddy Association” was organlBed last 
February with J. J. Ryan, of the United Waste Mfg. 
Co., of Troy, president; F. P. Graves, of Albany, sec¬ 
retary. and Charles Basch, of Newark. N. J.. treas¬ 
urer. It is proposed to keep the exchange open daily 
and denters who have stock to sell can place samples 
on exhibition The membership fee is $10 and seats 
on the exchange will be sold at $100 each. It is not 
stated what the annual dues will be. 

Robert Simister. the pioneer shoddy manufacturer 
of Manayunk Pa., has called a meeting; of the 52 mill 
owners in Manayunk to consider sending a lobby to 
Washington to fight the Foraker anti-shoddy bill that 
will be brought up at the present session. Thirty- 
nine mill owners decided to raise a fund and ask the 
manufacturers, through the Manufacturer’s Club of 
Philadelphia, to subscribe to a fund to defeat the 
wool grower. In Manayunk 25.000 persons depend on 
shoddy goods and over a hundred million dollars Is 
invested. There is no disputing the fact that shoddy 
occupies a very important position in fabrics for 
men’s wear. 

Shawl. A cloth of silk; wool; worsted; silk and 
worsted; cotton and worsted; cotton and wool; wool 
and mohair, or any other combination l T sod espe¬ 
cially by women as a loose covering for the neck and 
head; was h»’st used for Moor covering. "Sanscrit” 
sala, iloor 

Silk. The line, soft thread produced by various spe¬ 
cies of caterpillars in the form of a cocoon, within 
which the worm is inclosed during pupa state; espe¬ 
cially that produced by the larves of Bourbyx Mori; 
(2) thread spun or cloth woven from above. 

silk. Wild. Tussah; Eria; Muga; Atlas and Yama 

Mai. 

Silken. Of the nature of silk; like silk in many 
particulars. 

Sllkeen. Made of and like silk; delicate; soft; as 
silken cloth. 

Silk (Cardedi. This is yarn spun from waste silk; 
as caused by throwing, spinning, winding; or when 
cocoon is cut by the inclosed larve. As distinct from 
silk noils; as while the former produces a perfectly 



45 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

smooth and level thread the noils produce a thread 
very rough. The former is used in limited quantities 
for effect in fancy worsted and fancy cassimeres; the 
latter is used extensively in the manufacture of 
ladies’ dress goods, toweling, etc. 

Silk (Artificial). 

“CHARDONNET” PROCESS OF MAKING IT. 

The high cost of natural silk ha.s always been an 
incentive to inventors in their search for a substitute 
that would possess the strength and lustre of the 
natural product. The first patent for artificial silk 
was issued in 1885, and samples were exhibited at the 
laris Exposition in 18S9. 

Many difficulties were met with at first. The highly 
explosive and inilammable character of the material 
was one of the greatest objections. This defect has 
been remedied by the process of treating the silk with 
a cupric ammonia solution and then in phosphorate 
of ammonia. This process reduces the inflammability 
of artificial silk below that of cotton. Companies in 
both Franco and Germany are engaged in the manu¬ 
facture of the artificial product, and as the price was 
much below that of natural silk, while the lustre was 
even higher, a ready market was found for all that 
could be produced. 

To offset the advantages that we have named, arti¬ 
ficial silk possesses certain defects. The dry artificial 
silk possesses less than half of the strength and con¬ 
siderably less elasticity than true silk. For this rea¬ 
son its use has been confined to the weft of goods 
with a warp of natural silk, mercerized cotton, or 
worsted. It is used extensively in the manufacture 
of the stuffs, novelty goods, decorations, and passe¬ 
menterie. Still more objectionable is the lack of 
strength. The tendency of artificial silk when wet is 
to disintegrate like wet paper For this reason great 
care is necessary in dyeing and washing the ma¬ 
terial. 

By far the largest part of artificial silk is at pres¬ 
ent manufactured by the Chardonnet process. Re¬ 
cently a new artificial silk, called “glanzstoff.” has 
been put on the market. It is obtained by dissolving 
cellulose in cupric oxide of ammonia, and possesses 
considerable lustre and strength. 

There was exhibited at the Paris Exposition in 1900 
an artificial silk, called “viscoid,” that possessed 
many good qualities; this silk has not yet been placed 


46 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

on the market; as its name indicates, it is obtained 
from viscose 

With the exception of Vandura silk, which Is made 
by treating gelatine with formaldehyde, cellulose is 
the material from which artificial silk is made. Cot¬ 
ton is nearly chemically pure cellulose, and for this 
reason the action of dyestuffs and chemicals Is much 
the same on both cotton and artificial silk. 

The Chardonnet product, owing to the nitric acid in 
its manufacture, is much more susceptible to the 
action of most dyestuffs than is cotton. Thus arti¬ 
ficial silk can be dyed with the basic dyes, all shades 
from the brightest to the darkest without preparation 
with tannin and antimony salts. As brightness and 
lustre are more important than fastness in the dyeing 
of artificial silk, the basic dyes are specially adapted 
for this material. The dyeing process is simple and 
sure. Acetic acid is added to the bath and the ma¬ 
terial entered cold. This liquor is heated gradually, 
the fibre absorbs the liquor quickly, and the color de¬ 
velops very evenly. Although, as already observed, 
the wetting of artificial silk reduces its strength, 
there is not much danger in this respect If the ma¬ 
terial is handled carefully. 

The substantive dyes rank next to basic dyestuffs 
for dyeing artificial silk. For the dark shades the ma¬ 
terial Is entered cold in a soap bath containing com¬ 
mon or Glauber salt. The artificial silk absorbs the 
substantive dyes mo-e readily than does cotton, 
otherwise the action is the same. Owing to the re¬ 
duction of the strength of artificial silk when wet. 
great care must be used in handling the material 
when in this state. Violent boiling should be avoided, 
and after rinsing it is best to extract the material 
with rubber rolls under light pressure. Sulphur 
colors are less used for coloring artificial silk, as the 
shades obtained are duller and the fastness of the 
substantive dyes answers every purpose. The use of 
mordant dyes is excluded, because all mordants injure 
the lustre of artificial silk. 

The price of Chardonnet silk has hitherto averaged 
about $2.20 per pound, and recently was advanced to 
$2.30. The price will probably decline in the future, 
as many new establishments for producing artificial 
silk will doubtless play an important part in the tex¬ 
tile industry. 

silk (Weighting). The weighting of silk was for¬ 
merly unknown, though later it became the custom to 



47 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

replace the weight of the gum that was removed, and 
still later, the trade gradually exceeded this weight, 
until today the so-called art of weighting is a per¬ 
manent, but, on the whole, undesirable feature of 
modern silk dyeing. Three, general classes of ma¬ 
terials for weighting are in use, one being sugar and 
similar substances, though this class is less used than 
either of the other two. At present, certain salts of 
tin are mostly used on account of the heavy weight¬ 
ing always secured. The solution of tin used is 
known commercially as stannic chloride, and may be 
made by the dyer, or purchased from any drysalter. 
The tin solution should stand at 50 deg. Tw. and the 
silk, Avhich has previously been boiled and dried, is 
immersed for about one hour, after which it is lifted, 
drained, wrung thoroughly', then washed in plenty of 
water, squeezed and passed for 15 to 20 minutes 
through a boiling bath of sodium phosphate, stand¬ 
ing, when cold, at about 50 deg. Tw. After this bath, 
the silk is washed and passed for a short time (15 
minutes) through a solution of sulphate of alumina at 
7 1/2 deg. Tw„ after which it is given a final treat¬ 
ment in a warm bath of silicate of soda, which should 
stand at about 7 deg. Tw. After this preliminary 
treatment, the silk is well washed in soft water and 
again returned to the tin solution, the entire series of 
operations being repeated until the required degree of 
weighting is secured, when the silk is given a passage 
through a soap bath, in order to impart a proper 
handle to the threads. 

Stannic acid solution—technically called tin weight¬ 
ing spirits—is employed in preference to any other 
substance, on account of the fact that it has but little, 
if any. action on the lustre of the silk, and for this 
reason is of considerable value in the dyeing of light, 
bright and delicate shades and tints. It is the opinion 
of some dy’ers that the tin weighting spirits have cer¬ 
tain defects, the most prominent being the influence 
the tin has on the fugitiveness as to light, and the 
ultimate weakening of the weighted silk fibres, the 
latter being a serious defect of the tin-weighting 
process. . 

The weighting of silk with certain tannin matters 
is called “gallin,” because, at one time, all tannin- 
weighted silk was done with gall nuts. The entire 
process is essentially one of dyeing, although the 
weighting is applied either before, during, or after dye¬ 
ing to either discharged or soupled silks. If discharged 





48 


THE AMERICAS WEAVER. 


silks are to he treated, the tannin bath is acidulated, 
hut is neutral when souples are to be worked, 
as the amount of gum remaining: is seriously reduced 
if acid be present. Sumac extract is now almost uni¬ 
versally used, the bath beinK made up to about 6 deg. 
Tw. and maintained at this strength by constant ad¬ 
ditions of fresh extract, which, for high-class work, 
should be as stainless as possible. It should be re¬ 
membered that souple silks take from the bath 
greater amounts of tannin matters than discharged 
silks. Pale tannic acids are now commercially obtain¬ 
able. and for weighting, white or pale tinted silks are 
preferable to sumac extracts, though rather dearer. 

If dyeing is to be done after weighting, a small 
quantity of sumac should be added to the dyebath 
as an offset to the amount of tannin that the silk 
would otherwise lose, but if the dyeing be done be¬ 
fore weighting, some of the color should be added to 
the bath to equalize the conditions. Somewhat allied 
to tannin weighting Is the application of albumen, 
which is regarded with considerable favor, as. by its 
use. the increase is ns much as 50 per cent., and which 
can he again increased b> a supplementary tin weight¬ 
ing without any injurious results, at the same time 
leaving the silk perfectly white. The details are as 
follows: 

The silk, which has been previously boiled off. is 
given several runs—say. from six to ten—through a 
solution containing from 8 to 10 ounces of egg albu¬ 
men per gallon of water, to which is added a solution 
of 1 1/2 ounces of formaldehyde <40 per cent.) in 
three-quarters of water. The silk is then squeezed 
• and laid down for over an diour, the foregoing opera¬ 
tion is then repeated, ami the silk is again squeezed 
and afterwards air-dried. The increase is about 30 
per cent. Casein and gelatine have also been used 
with fair results.—B. J. of C. 

Skirting. Those fabrics used for women’s skirts: 
plain and fancy. 

Stripes. Any fabric or cloth made with stripes 
running the length of piece; may be produced in the 
weaving, or may be produced by the printing ma¬ 
chine; distinct fiom checks; plaids; overplald; plain 
face, etc 

Smitng. A knitted worsted cape, worn over a lady's 
dress. So named in honor of Mme. Henrietta Soutag. 
a famous singer. 

Suiting. All kinds of textile fabrics manufactured 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


41 ) 


as distinct from trousering 1 and otherwise defined 
uses Suitable for coat and vest, but at times not 
sufficiently serviceable for trousers. (2) for women’s 
wear; distinct from skirting, coating, etc. 

Surah. A silk fabric for ladies’ wear; of fine yarn 
and close texture. 

Sophistication. The art of sophistication has been 
so perfected that it requires no little technical skill 
to tel) the difference between an “all wool” and part 
wool fabric.—Phila. Record. 

Scotches. This is a class of goods made of combed 
or carded yarns. Some of these are made by blending 
or mixing a number of colored fibres in each thread, 
and the combining of a number of such variously 
blended threads into one fabric; woven in checks; 
plaids; and overplaids. Are exceedingly novel in el’- 
febt. Usually cheviot finish; rough surface. If manu¬ 
factured of all new wool, the cloth has a lively ap¬ 
pearance and supple feel, and possesses excellent 
wearing qualities. 

Scotches (?). Fabrics similar to foregoing in ap¬ 
pearance; made of shoddy; mungo; shoddy and cotton; 
or a cheviot finished satinet, subsequently printed in 
imitation of the real, and where the following caustic 
remark is applicable, viz: Parker—Did you buy that 
suit for all wool? Tucker—I did. Parker—Well, you 
got fleeced, old fellow.—Smart Set. 

T 

T-Cloth. A plain cotton fabric manufactured in 
England for the China and India market. Designated 
by the letter T. 

Tnbnret. A stout satin-striped silk used for furni¬ 
ture. 

Tabby. A fabric having a wavy or watered ap¬ 
pearance' as, a kind of waved silk: usually watered. 
Manufactured like taffeta, but thicker and stronger. 
The watering appearance is given it by the process 
of calendering. A kind of rich undulated silk. 

Table Cloth. A fabric manufactured of linen, or 
cotton; used for covering a table; especially for 
spreading on the table before the dishes are set for 
meals. Nearly all of these are woven in flowers or 
figures, and usually on the Jacquard loom. 

Taffeta. A fine, smooth fabric of silk, of a remark¬ 
able wavy lustre, imparted by pressure and heat with 
the application of an acidulous fluid to produce the 
effect called watering. It is of all colors, and is often 


r>0 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

striped with gold and silver. Named from a street In 
Bagdad. 

Tape. A narrow, woven fabric; used for strings and 
the like. 

Tnrlntnn*. A kind of thin, transparent muslin. 
Used for women's and children’s dresses. 

Toweling. A fabric of silk noil; linen or cotton; 
or combined; for wiping - the face, hands and other 
purposes. (2) Turkish toweling, woven from linen, 
with loops drawn to the surface. 

Tricot. A w'oolen cloth with fine ribs running 
across the piece; produced by the transposition of 
weave; used for gentlemen’s clothing. Made of all 
wool, also wool face and substitute for back. 

Trlcot-long. Similar to above, but ribs running 
lengthwise of piece. 

Tricot tee. A woolen fabric produced with yarns of 
right and left hand twist, on the plain or cotton 
weave, dressed one and one and filled the same, lour¬ 
ing the finishing the threads of opposite twist run 
towards each other, forming fine recesses across the 
piece. Piece-dyed in many colors; used for laJies’ 
garments. 

Trimming*. All those fine fabrics of silk; worsted 
and cotton, used for trimming and ornamenting; 
finishing garments, hats, etc. 

Trousering. Those cloths used exclusively for 
trousers. Distinct from suiting; vesting; coating and 
overcoating. 

Tulle. A silk open w'ork. Named after the tow’n of 
Tulle, in France, where first made. 

Tuf-tnfTetn. A silk fabric of villous surface. 

Turf. 

CLOTHING FROM TURF. 

A suit of clothes from turf w r ool may be no novelty 
ten years from now. Already It is possible to get 
a fine spinning material from the turf fibre. 

The early experiments with turf, ten years ago. 
were unsatisfactory, reports Frank H. Mason, our 
consul general in Berlin. The fibres then obtained 
were not good spinning material, being hard and 
brittle, and not easily bleached or colored. I^ater a 
civil engineer named Zschorner. in Vienna, succeeded 
in extracting threads from turf which proved to be 
good spinning material. He worked by a dry process, 
unaided by chemicals, and succeeded in producing a 
kind of wool, which, though not adapted to the spin- 


51 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

ning of fine yarns, is yet so flexible and elastic that 
large fabrics can be made therefrom. It is char¬ 
acterized also by great absorbtivity, is a poor heat 
conductor, does not burn readily, and is. moderately 
firm and cheap. 

Zschorner next produced turf wadding. This is 
used as bandages for men and animals in cases of 
wounds and the like, and also as a filling for pillows 
and bed coverings. Then he wove turf yarn into 
ropes and rugs. The remnants which resulted served 
for the production of paper and pasteboard. 

Karl Geige. in Dusseldorf. has gone still further. 
He has secured from turf fibre a fine spinning ma¬ 
terial which has absorptivity, and which may also be 
bleached or colored. After extracting the vegetable 
substance Geige treats it with acids and alkalies, and 
then boils the resulting liquid, whereby the cells are 
disorganized and useless substances released and 
washed out, so that the turf wool consists of almost 
pure cellulose. 

It is affirmed that the Geige turf wool is soft and 
elastic, w'th all the good properties of rival products, 
and in its spinning capability resembles sheep's wool. 
Clothing material and different kinds of yarn are 
made out. of this product in combination with cotton 
or sheep’s wool. Turf cloth, it is asserted, absorbs 
perspiration in summer and is warm in winter. Felt 
hats are made of the turf wool. It is further stated 
that Geige makes Smyrna and other rugs out of turf 
wool, which are bleached and colored. In addition to 
all this, the Geige turf wadding, it is maintained, is 
not only cheap, but a useful bandage material, be¬ 
cause it easily absorbs the secretions of wounds, 
which are. therefore, kept always dry and clean. It 
is recorpmended further as a substitute for laying 
under ill persons and as a padding for splints. 

Tweeds. A woolen cloth formerly called “tweel.” 
but now applied to many twilled cloths. The finer 
grades are usually manufactured from Australian, 
New Zealand. Cape, Buenos Ayres, Port Natal, German 
and Saxony wool. The coarser grades are manufac¬ 
tured from common and cross-bred wool. There is no 
class of goods that will admit of the use of shoddy 
and mungo to a like extent, and with the proper 
blending of colors present so good an appearance. 
Anything long enough to spin into thread can be used 
in the making of tweeds and cheviots. 

Twills. These are fabrics having fine diagonals of 



52 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


the plainest kind. I'sed largely in the making of 
worsted and woolen goods of all kinds; and are fre¬ 
quently employed as the groundwork for figured fab¬ 
rics. Nearly all clays, cheviots and serges are woven 
with the even twiU, two up and two down, or three 
up and three down. Occasionally on very tine clays 
the three up and two down is employed. These fab¬ 
rics are known as through and through and are su¬ 
perior in wearing qualities to faced fabrics. 

Twills* Pnncy. Plain diagonals transposed to pro¬ 
duce a fancy effect, and yet retain the twill order. 

U 

Unions. A fabric composed of materials of various 
properties, as: silk and linen; silk and cotton; silk 
and worsted; cotton and worsted; cotton and wool; 
linen and cotton; wool, shoddy and cotton; shoddy, 
mungo and cotton; in one fabric. As cotton wor¬ 
steds; union cassimeres; satinets; llnseys, many of the 
lower grades of tweed or cheviots. In short, all fab¬ 
rics the constitutional parts of which are not of one 
family, and of one kind only. Linen is a vegetable 
fibre; but it is not cotton. Wool is an animal fibre; 
but it is not silk. The finest cashmere is more expen¬ 
sive than wool, and yet it cannot be said to possess 
the qualities of even ordinary wool. Old rag shoddy, 
mungo and docks may be all animal fibre, and yet. 
not equal to wool of same „rade of fineness in the 
fibre. These are a material produced by machinery 
and cannot Justly be classed as raw material in com¬ 
parison with wool. Unions, as related to men’s wear 
usually enter Into the cheaper grades of ready made 
clothing, and are sold under high-sounding trade- 
names or fictitious values. 

Undressed Worsted. A fine, closely woven worsted 
fabric or cloth; with a good cover on surface, nap 
covering the weave. Not sheared close. This like 
the Thibit and Vicugna, finished goods usually dyed 
in the piece, black. Enters into clerical dress suits; 
Prince Alberts; Tuxedos and full dress. An exceed¬ 
ingly fine class of goods manufactured from fine se¬ 
lected stock; spun to fine numbers and is made in 
the loom, not the fulling mill. 

V 

Venetians. Is a fine, all new wool cloth of close 
texture. Of solid colors as also varied blends or 
mixtures. Wool dyed, as also piece dyed. Produced 



THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


53 

on the five harness satin weave. Warp face; very 
thick, closely sheared nap; the twill not too promi¬ 
nent; perfectly smooth and even face. Supposed to 
have originated at Venice. Used extensively for 
ladies’ tailor made suits. Not in vogue for gentle¬ 
men's suiting at present. 

Veloure. Hairy, shaggy. Applied to a kind of 
finish to worsted and woolen goods. ‘‘Veloure finish.” 
A satinet may be veloure finished. It carries with it 
no meaning as to character of fabric so finished. 

Velvet-silk. A soft fabric woven wholly of silk; 
having a loose pile on the surface and a short, thick 
nap. 

Velvet-cotton. A material similar to foregoing 
with a cotton back and silk pile on surface. 

Velvet-Hni.sli. A certain finish to face of worsted 
and woolen goods: like velvet; soft, smooth, delicate. 

Velveting. A piece of velvet; velvet goods. 

Vicugna. A cloth or fabric made from vicugua 
fibres: a short curly hair; used for making delicate 
fabrics. 

Vicugna-finish. A short curly nap on face of fabric; 
as: vicugua. Usually applied to fine, .soft, worsted 
goods, to resemble the genuine vicugua fabrics. 

Veiling. A fine silk or cotton fabric of open tex¬ 
ture; nun’s veiling; a fine fabric manufactured of fine 
worsted yarn; open texture; piece dyed and of various 
colors. 

Villous. This relates to the finish of goods abound¬ 
ing or covered with fine, hairs cr wooly substances. 
Nappy, shaggy with soft fibres; downy; velvety. May 
be produced on any fabric by means of the Teazel- 
gig, or napping machine. 

Vitals brand. This is a trade name for a certain 
class of -woolens (?) 

Vigclln. A sort of twilled non-shrinkable cotton 
flannel, having the appearance of an all wool fabric. 

Value, Standard of. There is at the present time no 
uniform standard of value. Some set their standard 
of value on the fabric: the raw material being all new 
wool; well constructed in manufacture ‘‘so that fabric 
will not yawn at seams;” dyes employed that stand 
the test of the elements; linings; trimmings; buttons; 
and the sanitary and healthy conditions under which 
such clothing is manufactured. Others set their 
standard of value on appearance, regardless of ma¬ 
terials in the composition. There is no established 



54 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER . 


value o? nny piece of cloth for clothing purposes, nor 
yet a ready-to-wear suit of clothing', as goods that 
cost less to produce are often sold at higher prices 
than those more costly. Again, a certain fabric may, 
in garments, prove more valuable for certain purposes 
than another fabric double its cost. Who. then, can 
justly determine the true value of a given fabric but 
the consumer? There should be an established value 
put upon every article that is of a public nature; and 
this before it goes to the consumer. No one can be 
well versed in all the technicalities entering into tne 
many things as part of one’s life, and precautions and 
safeguards are necessary to protect the consumer 
against the practices of the unscrupulous dealer in 
such commodities. 

W 

Wnshnhle. All kinds of fabrics that can be laund¬ 
ered without injury to garment made of such ma¬ 
terial. Silk, marscilles and duck; all washable goods. 
Some of these fabrics are embellished with figures, 
and flowers of the most delicate tints, and the utmost 
care must be exercised to prevent colors bleeding or 
running More particularly should this be observed 
in treating fancy silk vesting, collarettes, etc. 

Wnddlng. A kind of soft stuff of loose texture, 
used for stuffing garments. Sheets of carded cotton 
prepared for this purpose. 

Waldmoll. A heavy, wooly cloth used in the six¬ 
teenth century for garments. 

Wnll. A cloth or fabric having ribs or cords rising 
above the surface, or above the body and running 
diagonally across the piece; like the ribs in a twill. 
Narrow wail; wide wail, etc. 

Waved. A fabric exhibiting a wave-like appear¬ 
ance. Undulating; indented; variegated; alternately 
convex and concave; sinuous or undulated in outline, 
.and sometimes also in the plain of the surface.— 
Webster. 

Weaving. To interlace threads at right angles in 
such a manner as to form cloth. Knitting is not 
weaving. 

Web. A woven cloth or fabric. 

Whip-cord. A woolen cloth having what looks like 
twisted cords on the face; is produced by twisting 
two threads of contrasting colors into one. and em¬ 
ploying a doeskin weave. An excellent fabric for hard 
service. 



THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 55 

Whittle-shawl. A fine kerseymere, fringed at the 
edges. 

Wilton. A carpet, woven with loops like the brus- 
sels, and only differing from it in having the loops cut 
open into an elastic, velvet pile. 

Wigan. A stiff cotton cloth, used to give stiffening 
to the skirts of women’s dresses and the like. From 
Wigan, the name of a town in Lancashire, England. 

Wool (Volins). That soft, curled or crimped spe¬ 
cies of fibres which grows on the sheep, and which in 
fineness sometimes approaches to fur, and which con¬ 
stitute a most essential material for clothing in all 
cold and temperate climes. (2) The natural product 
of the sheep; (3) fleece or sheared wool; (4) pulled or 
dead wool. The former is sheared from the sheep 
while it is yet alive. The latter is pulled from the 
pelt after slaughter; (5) fine, or combing wool; (6) 
coarse, or carding wool. 

Wool, History of. There were big flocks in the days 
of the patriarchs, when Abraham and Lot had to sep¬ 
arate to get new grazing grounds. It is written that 
King Solomon sacrificed 120.000 sheep when he dedi¬ 
cated the Temple, and we know that Mesha. King of 
Naob. gave Jehoram, King of Israel, 100,000 lambs as 
tribute. 

Wool Fibre. 

CHARACTERISTIC OF WOOL FIBRE. 

The general conception of the wool fibre is that 
of a very fine hair. This is erroneous. A wool fibre, 
be it coarse as that from a common sheep or fine as 
that from a full blood merino lamb, is cellular. With¬ 
out a central stem, one cell growing out from the one 
immediately preceding, with outer lips of each left 
free from the succeeding cell, giving it the appear¬ 
ance of fine saw teeth. These projections, serrations 
or scales vary in number to a lineal inch, according 
to the fineness of fibre. It is herein we find the great¬ 
est peculiarity and individuality not possessed by any 
other fibre. 

Another peculiarity is that the wool fibre, “owing 
to its cellular structures,” tapers from root to tip, as 
shown in the illustration. 

Breeding; food in winter and pasture in summer; 
the many and variable climatic conditions in the var¬ 
ious countries in the four quarters of the globe, each 
has its influence on the. sheep and likewise on the 
wool; but be the sheep plump or poor in flesh, be it 



56 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 



well fed and housed or not, the general characteristic 
of the fibre remains, and always is wool . Nothing 
can change it. 

AVool (Intrinsic Vnlne). From the earliest period 

in the world s history, we find mention of the sheep. 
Those we now consider the brightest minds of that 
age and whose achievements have never been excelled 
even with our up-to-date methods and learning, al¬ 
ways mention it with reverence and hold it up as a 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


57 


symbol of innocence and purity. Poets have sung its 
praises and worshipers have brought and laid it on 
the altar of sacrifice. 

T need not, however, speak further of that which is 
history; as even to this day the sheep is held in the 
same high esteem as long, long ago by the bright 
minds of this age. One illustration in this connection 
will suffice and should be carefully considered and 
pondered over, viz:— 

The papal gloves are made of white wool. The ma¬ 
terial for these gloves and indeed for nearly all the 
woolen garments, is supplied by a family which has 
had the right to do so ever since 1566. For this pur¬ 
pose the family keeps a special herd of 50 sheep, 
whose wool is used only in the making of papal gar¬ 
ments. 

The most interesting vestment, however, and also, 
perhaps, the most simple, is the pallium. This is a 
narrow, long strip of white lamb's wool, which is 
worn round the neck and figure, terminating over the 
left shoulder, both back and front. It is quite un¬ 
adorned, save for a golden cross at the two ends. 

A large number of these palliums are kept for the 
Pope, each of which, before using, is first laid upon 
the sarcophagus of St. Peter The wool of which tney 
are made comes from a few lambs specially set apart 
for the purpose. 

Every year, on January ?1, a certain number of 
young lambs are brought to the Pope for his blessing, 
the ceremony being very impressive. At its conclu¬ 
sion they are taken to a nunnery near Rome, and kept 
there for a year, during which time they are fed on 
the most sumptuous of foods. As soon as the year 
is over they are shorn, and their wool is carded, spun 
and woven into fresh palliums by the nuns.—Boston 
Herald. 

Mrs. Phandos Leigh-Hunt Wallace remarks on ra¬ 
tional dress: "Rational dress applies not only to 
shape but to the quality and quantity of the garments. 
Pure woolen clothing hung from the shoulders or 
from the bodice should be worn.” Why pure woolens 
if shoddy, mungo, fiocks and cotton combined in one 
fabric are just as good? 

THE WOOLSACK. 

As for the woolsack as a cushion for the lord chan¬ 
cellor, Elizabeth's reign (1558) is responsible for such 
a custom. The exportation of w'ool being forbidden 


68 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

by Parliament, it was necessary to impress the people 
with this great source of national wealth and its Brest 
importance to the kingdom. So, to add dignity to 
wool, sacks of it were placed in the House of lx>rds. 
whereon the staid and learned judges obligingly sat. 
Thus it comes to pass that the lord chancellor still 
sits upon uis woolsack (over which is thrown a red 
cloth), and to Le appointed high chancellor of Eng¬ 
land is even now “to be appointed to the woolsack.” 

\\ uol, Teclnib'nl Knowledge of. To those with a 
technical education the foregoing explanation would 
be sufficient. As. however, this is intended for all 
having occasion to wear woolen clothes, 1 the great ma¬ 
jority of whom have no technical knowledge of this 
subject, I will go on a little and explain more fully. 

Wool:—That soft, curled or crimped species of 
tibrer. grown on the sheep. 

There is absolutely no species of mamalia other 
than the sheep that produces a fibre identical to the 
wool; and while Cashmere, Vicugua, Thibit, Astrak¬ 
han. Alpaca, Angora and numerous other animal fibres 
are used in the manufacture of woolen goods, are not. 
strictly sneaking, wool, as all these here mentioned 
are obtained from the various species of goats; and. 
even though the undercoat of some of these is very 
line and silky, and will allow manufacturing into ex¬ 
ceedingly fine fabrics, it is yet either a fine hair or 
fur. Fach has characteristics peculiarly its own. 

A full blood merino lamb’s wool is nothing less 
than wool fur, because of its fineness. The first clip 
from the kid may be as fine, and yet it is not wool, 
but hair-fur. With full confidence in the ability of 
the many writers on textile subjects, I still believe 
that those claiming wool grows on the sheep and 
various other species of mamalia are in error. 

Wool Substitutes. Shoddy, mungo, flocks, cotton 
These arc the articles that enter largely into woolen 
and worsted goods, and are employed more on ac¬ 
count of cost and to produce a cloth that shall and 
must be cheap. There are still other materials em¬ 
ployed: some for effect, others to beautify the fabric, 
and these nearly always cost more than does wool of 
same grade of fineness. The former is the rule, the 
latter the exception. It is estimated that during the 
year of 1900 A. D.. 1S5 million pounds of wool substi¬ 
tutes were consumed in the manufacture of woolen 
goods. 



59 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

AN ENGLISH VIEW ON THE SUBJECT. 

My attention was first drawn to the extensive adul¬ 
teration of woolen goods by an able article headed, 
“Why is Wool so Cheap?” in which the writer, who 
is well known as a wool expert, boldly states that 
“if the wearing apparel, as used by men and women, 
were only made out of the pure wool fibre expressly 
given to us by providence for this sole purpose, in¬ 
stead of being substituted by other foreign materials, 
then there would be a robust state of affairs in con¬ 
nection with wool, but, as it is. the use of wool is 
annulled at every turn by the use of substitutes for 
the sole purpose of cheapening wool fabrics, with lit¬ 
tle or no regard to the wearing properties of the 
same.” 

The same authority states that in a drive of thirty 
miles around not one, but scores of mills could be 
pointed out where, for every bale of wool used, ten 
bales, and often more, of shoddy, mungo stockings 
and cotton are used, and that in what is known as 
the heavy woolen district there are dozens of manu¬ 
facturers who never buy a bale of raw wool, and yet 
are known and acknowledged as influential manufac¬ 
turers of woolen goods. 

This is a very extraordinary statement, and not¬ 
withstanding the wide circulation of the article 
quoted, no refutation has been forthcoming from the 
manufacturers interested. 

The importance of the frequent sales of rags of 
every description, stockings, mungo and the like, dis¬ 
patched from all parts of the British Isles and sev¬ 
eral continental countries, held at Dewsbury, Batley, 
Leeds and other centres in the manufacturing dis¬ 
tricts. proves the truth of the foregoing assertion. 

It is further stated that to several large woolen 
manufacturers these sales are far more important 
than any of the great wool sales held in London, 
Bradford and elsewhere. 

Examples of Adulterated Goods.—Melton, 40 inches 
wide, 6d. to 7d. per yard, extensively used for skirts 
and frocks, contains no wool, being absolutely all cot¬ 
ton warp, the weft being entirely spun from rags and 
a little raw cotton blended together to give it 
strength—sold as woolen goods. It is stated that 
thousands of pieces are sold weekly in the shape of 
meltons, serges and the like, and that the art of 
finishing has reached such a state of perfection that 




GO 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

it is now quite possible to hide from the ultimate 
buyer the defeats of the fabric, particularly hiding 
the foundation material of the cloth. 

In the Yorkshire Daily Observer of March 21ith last 
reference is made to a cheap class of coverts brought 
out by some leading manufacturers, composed of a 
mixture of worsted warp and a cheap carded weft 
termed Angola, a high-sounding name for a blend of 
cotton wdth mungo. Having a satin or Venetian 
weave the weft is thrown on the back of the cloth, 
leaving the face with a worsted appearance. The 
cloth is well constructed and has a large demand. 

An assize trial at Deeds on March 17th last has set¬ 
tled the vexed question of the vague terms "all wool” 
and "woolens/’ and we now know that "all wool” 
means all wool, but "woolens" means anything that 
is composed of shoddy, mungo and cotton. 

Woolen Thread. This relates to Fig. No. 3, showing 
a carded woolen thread. Its peculiarity consists in 
that there is absolutely no order of parallelism of 
fibres, but instead, a uniformity of crossings. It is 
this style of thread that enters into all goods known 
as Cussimores, and the great bulk of all classes of 
woolen goods for ladies’ and gentlemen’s wear. This 
style of thread, when made from the finest merino 
wool, will admit of spinning to a fineness of 1,200 
vards per ounce, and yet produce a sound thread. 



Wolley. A dne fabric consisting of wool; the state 
or quality of being wooly; resembling wool; of the 
nature of wool. "Not always wool, however.” 

Woolenettr. A thin, light fabric made from wool. 

Woolens. All kinds and classes of fabrics and 
cloths made from carded woolen yarn. 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


61 


Worsted. A cloth or fabric of combed yarns (in 
contra distinction to carded yarns) invented and first 
made at Wolsted, near Norwich, England, about 1329 
A. D. 

Worsted Thread (slightly twisted). 




The peculiarity of a worsted thread is in that it is 
very smooth and even, there is an absolute regularity 
in the fibres lying parallel to each other, thus form¬ 
ing an even and level thread. By this means of man¬ 
ufacture fine stapled woo) may be spun to a fineness 
of 3,200 yards to ounce and still have a sound thread. 

\\ or*teds. All classes of worsted goods; made from 
combed woolen yarn. 

Worsteds, Cotton. All that class of worsted fabrics 
having cotton in their composition; as all wool-wor¬ 
sted face, and cotton back for warp, and cotton fill¬ 
ing; all wool -worsted warp and cotton filling; all cot¬ 
ton ground with a few light colored threads of wor- 


Number of Sheep and Lambs in the United States in 

15 ) 02 , 01 , 414 , 024 . 


Wool grown in the United States and imported from foreign 
countries (approximately in million pounds). 


Year Grown 

Imp’t'd 

Year Grown 

Imp’t’d 

Year Grown 

Imp’t'd 

1S40.. 35.8... 

. 9.8 

1878..208.2. 

... 48.4 

185)0. 295.7. 

...106.3 

1850.. 52.5... 

. 18.6 

1879..211 . 


1891..807.4. 

...129.3 

1800.. 60.2... 

. 26.2 

1880. 232.5 

...128 

1892..833 . 

...148.6 

1865..142 ... 

. 44.4 

1881..240 . 

... 55.9 

1893..348.5. 

...172.4 

1870..162 ... 

. 49.2 

1882..272 . 

... 67.8 

1894..325.2. 

... 45.7 

1871..160 ... 

. 68 

188;).. 290 . 

... 70.5 

1895..294.2. 

...192 

1872..150 ... 

.126.5 

1884..300 . 

... 78.3 

I 896. .‘J72.4. 

...228 

1873..158 ... 

. 85.4 

1885..308 . 

... 70.5 

1897..259.1. 

...366.6 

1874..170 ... 

. 42.9 . 

1886..302 . 

...129 

1898..266.7. 

...132.8 

1875..181 ... 

. 54.9 

1887..285 . 

...114 

1895). .272.1. 

... 76.7 

1876..192 ... 

. 44.6 

1888..302.1. 

...113.5 

15)00. .288.6. 

... 155.5) 

1877 .200 ... 

. 421 

1889..301.8. 

...126.4 

1902..324.1. 

. 










THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


62 


steel to add to Its appearance, and cotton Ailing; so- 
called wool-backs; all, or the greater portion of warp, 
cotton; with cotton face and shoddy back Ailing. High 
numbers are usually employed to give the fabric the 
appearance of a Ane worsted cloth. In all respects no 
better in comparison with worsteds than are union 
Cassimeres with an all wool Cassimere. Remember 
the moral In Franklin’s story, "Look on t'other side, 
Jim." 


Wool. CoiiMiiiuptlon of. Not all wool grown here 

and imported from foreign countries is consumed here. 
Some of this is again exported. See U. S. statistics. 

Wool. Per capita consumption of—iy the United 
States. 


In 1840, 
In 1SS0, 
In 3 880, 
In 1897. 


4.4 lbs. 

6 8 lbs. 

8.5 lbs 
10. lbs. 


In 1S50, 
In 18”; 0. 
In 1890. 
In 1900, 


5.5 lbs 
7.9 lbs. 
9. lbs. 
5.5 lbs. 


Wool (( InsMlng of). Wool-classing, on a large mer¬ 
cantile scale, is no new thing, as the brokers and 
merchants of I.ondon, Sydney, and Melbourne would 
perhaps readily admit; but among "things not gen¬ 
erally known" must certainly be Included the fact 
that classiAed inventories of wool—catalogues they 
might almost be termed—were made and used 6.000 
years ago or more. And. yet more remarkable, these 
catalogues are still in existence, and may be read 
with accuracy, if not with ease, in this present year 
of grace, by any Coleman street broker who has a 
fair knowledge of Chaldean, and will be at the trouble 
of taking a ’bus to the British Museum. In that 
great Storehouse of the Beginnings, in the New Baby¬ 
lonian Room, he will And selections from sever.al 
thousands of burnt clay tablets recently acquired by 
the Museum, from a collection unearthed by the late 
M. do Sarzec in the record chamber of the temple of 
the city of Sirpurra. or Lagas. on the Shat-cl-Hrl. 
Mr W. St. Chad Boscawen describes them as records 
of the Chaldean Board of Agriculture of the reigns 
of kings of the Second Dynasty of Ur, dating round 
B. C. 25^0. Upon these records the taxation was 
based, and their minute accuracy would put to shame 
the returns compiled by many goverment offices of 
the present day. Revenens a nos moutons. Among 
others, are inventories of skins, two certain items 
being 179? sheep skins and 316 lamb skins, while 
many of the returns relate to the tax of wool paid in 



THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


63 


by the sheep farmers. Herein the wool is divided 
into several classes, the best being the “royal stand¬ 
ard”; then three other classes; also mixed wool, 
brown wool, lambs’ wool, and goats’ hair. Moreover, 
in the early inscriptions the price of wool is given— 
four mana of wool being valued at one shekel. This 
will doubtless interest our Coleman street friend, who 
must want to know how much the Chaldean wool 
brokers made on the sale of a hundred bales at the 
price named; so we leave him to work out the prob¬ 
lem undisturbed. 

Wool. Average weight per fleece in the different 
states in the Tj. S. in 1900 A. D., in pounds and tenths 
of pound. 


Maine . 

... 5.7 

Ohio. 

5.8 

New Hampshire ... 

.. 5.7 

Michigan . 

6.7 

Vermont. 

... 6.4 

Indiana. 

6.4 

Massachusetts. 

... 5.9 

Illinois. 

6.8 

Rhode Island . 

... 4.7 

Wisconsin. 

6.9 

Connecticut . 

... 4.8 

Minnesota . 

6.7 

New York . 


Iowa . 

6.9 

New Jersey.. 

... 4.9 

Missouri . 

5.9 

Pennsylvania . 

... 5.6 

Kansas. 

7.1 

Delaware. 

... 4.5 

Nebraska. 


Maryland. 

... 5 

South Dakota. 

6.5 

Virginia . 

... 4.2 

North Dakota. 

6.5 

North Carolina- 


Montana. 

7.3 

South Carolina- 

...3 

Wyoming. 

7.9 

Georgia. 

...3 

Colorado. 

6.3 

Florida. 


New Mexico. 

3.8 

Alabama. 

... 2.8 

Arizona. 

5.9 

Mississippi . 

... 3 

Nevada . 

7.5 

Louisiana. 

.. 3.3 

Washington T’rrit’ry 

7-9 

Texas .. 

... 5.4 

California . 

5.5 

Arkansas. 


Utah. 

6 

Tennessee . 

.. 3.8 

Idaho . 

7.8 

West Virginia. 

.. 4.7 

Oregon . 

7.5 

Kentucky. 

.. 4.4 

Oklahoma . 

6 


Wool (Australian production of). The annual clip 
of Australian wool has grown in the last forty years 
from 8,000,000 to 700.000.000 pounds. Australasia now 
produces one-fourth of the world’s supply of wool, 
and its quality is so superior to that of the rest of 
the world that its market value is one-third of that 
of the entire world. Tt is worth notice that this 
remarkable result is the work of a missionary, for 
the introduction of the merino sheep into Australia 
is due to the Rev. Charles Marsden, an English mis¬ 
sionary, who in his efforts to spread Christianity 
among the natives and settlers, thought it would be 

















































64 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

a good idea to bring some sheep to enable settlers 
and discharged convicts to go into sheep raising. 

\\ mil 'Import 'hity on). It is provid.-.t tint 8»* 
washed first class wool shall pay a duty of 11 cents 
a pound; if washed, 22 cents a pound; if scoured, 3.1 
cents a pound; unwashed wool, if sorted, pays 22 
cents a pound. Second class wool, washed or un¬ 
washed. pays 12 cents a pound; if sorted. 24 cents a 
pound, and if scoured, 36 cents a pound. The ques¬ 
tion of value does not enter into the calculation in 
the least; it is simply the condition of the wool and 
its weight; in other words, a matter of calculation 
that any one with n rudimentary knowledge of arith¬ 
metic could compute. 

With third class wools, the case is different. If 
it costs 12 cents a pound or less, the duty is 4 cents 
a pound; if it contains less than 8 per c«*nt. of dirt, 
the duty is 12 cents a pound; if the wool costs more 
than 12 cents a pound, the rate of duty is 7 cents, 
which is Increased to 21 cents if this wool contains 
less than S per cent, of dirt. These figures may not 
appear very high, at first glance; and yet. in some 
cases we find them to amount to about 136 per cent, 
if based on the foreign value; and, on a class of 
wool coming in competition with Domestic wool 
worth about nine cents at ranch. Who pays this 
duty? The consumer of the goods made from such 
imported wool. It is but another case of ‘Jones pays 
the freight," 

Y 

Yachting Cloth. That class of cloths accepted as 
standard for yachting suits; both, ladies and gentle¬ 
men. 

Z 

Zephyr. A kerseymere made in Belgium; a water¬ 
proof fabric. (2) a thin, light, embroidered shawl 
made of worsted and cotton. (3) worsted yarn, called 
Berlin yarn. 

Zlhellne. A clotb manufactured from merino lambs’ 
wool for warp; and a like wool mixed with camels’ 
hair for filling; or, worsted warp, and camels’ hair 
for filling; or, either of the foregoing warps and a 
mix of wool, camels’ hair and fine cashmere for filling. 
The long cashmere hair coming to the surface giving 
the fabric a novel effect. Used for ladies* tailor- 
made coats or suits; according to weight. Also man- 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


65 


ufactured of cotton warp and mohair noils mixed 
with shoddy for filling-. There is no question but that 
Ramie is being used in this class of goods, and will, 
owing to its high lustre, be difficult to detect. Ramie, 
or China grass so called is grown to some extent in 
Sumatra, and imported to the United States. 


Dyeing Materials Used for the Coloring of 
the Various Fibres and Fabrics. 


Alcohol, Alum, Aniline salts, Aniline oil. 

Alizarine: 

In 1820 naphthalene was discovered in tar l>y Garden. 
This is a substance from which we derive some of our 
roost bcnutilul colors, ranging: from a buttercup yellow 
on the one hand to reds, pinks, greens, and scarlets. 

In 1832 anthracene was discovered by Dumas. It is now 
of immense importance, as it forms the base from which 
that beautiful and well known color Turkey red is now 
obtained. From time immemorial this valuable dye has 
been derived from the roots of the madder plant, the 
coloring principle of which is called alizarin. But in 18**-$ 
two German chemists, Graebe and Libermann, discov¬ 
ered a method of making artificial alizarin from the coal- 
tar product anthracene—a discovery which has com¬ 
pletely revolutionized the dyeing and calico-printing in¬ 
dustries. The excitement in the dyefng and coal-tar in¬ 
dustries was immense. Anthracene, which formerly was 
considered a useless by-product, sold at a few shillings a 
ton and utilized as a cart grease, immediately rose in 
price and shortly after this discovery commanded some¬ 
thing like $500 a ton. This artificial alizarin has now 
entirely superseded the natural product from the mad¬ 
der plant; and the cultivation of madder, which was 
once a great and flourishing industry, has now dwindled 
away, and in the course of a few years will probably be 
altogether extinct. 

Phenol, or carbolic acid, discovered by Mitscherlich in 
1S34, being one of the most powerful antiseptics and dis¬ 
infectants, purifies the atmosphere from noxious gases 
and destroys the infectious germs of disease. Its valu¬ 
able antiseptic properties have been introduced into sur¬ 
gery with great success by the present Lord Lister, pres¬ 
ident of the Royal Society. From carbolic acid is ob¬ 
tained a valuable series of coloring matters, ranging 
from a beautiful yellow, i, e., picric acid, to reds, 
oranges, browns and many other colors. 

The wonderful substance, aniline, is found only in small 
quantities in coal-tar, and its production on a sufficiently 
large scale for industrial purposes only became possible 
when Linin, in 1842, showed it could be made from nitro- 
lienzlne. or the artificial oil of bitter almonds, already 



67 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

mentioned. All the aniline for the production of the in¬ 
numerable beautiful colors is obtained from this deriva¬ 
tive of benzine. In 1856 Dr. William H. Perkin, then a 
young man of 18, was engaged experimenting on aniline 
with a view of making an artificial quinine. Though his 
experiments in that direction were a failure, they were 
the means of his making the great discovery of the first 
aniline color, namely, mauve, and from these experi¬ 
ments has arisen a world-wide industry. In 1S58, Prof. 
A. W. Hofmann discovered the magnificent color ma¬ 
genta, or aniline red, one of th© most brilliant colors 
known to the dyer. Then came in quick succession 
greens, violets, blues and yellow coloring matters, all the 
hues of the rainbow, and at the present day the number 
and varieties of colors are bewildering.—Extract from 
Scientific American. 

Ammonia, Archil, Argols, Cudbear, Cutch, Divi divi, 
Fustic, Gambier, Hypernic, Indigo, Bar-wood, Brazil¬ 
wood, Cam-wood. 

Logwood: After the natural dyes had full possession of 
the field for thousands of years, their use was brought 
down to a minimum and nearly destroyed altogether in a 
decade or two by the discovery of the coal-tar colors. 
This success of the artificial products w r as very largely 
due to the greater simplicity of the dyeing processes 
which their use involved. 

Logwood was for centuries the only material with wliich 
the dyer could produce a satisfactory black, and its rivals 
of today can hardly equal it much less surpass it. Properly 
used, it gives a black of which the fastness is in proportion 
to its beauty, but, unfortunately, the proper method is 
somew’liat difficult and troublesome. When the artificial 
dyes began their victorious progress, the makers of log¬ 
wood extract seem to have made up their minds to a 
purely passive resistance, trusting to the excellence of 
their goods to pull them through. Some of them, how¬ 
ever, thinking that the good time would last forever, 
had grievously injured their own reputation, and, what 
is far worse, that of their craft, by selling adulterated 
extract, and thereby greatly assisted the competition of 
the aniline and anthracene blacks against their own in¬ 
dustry. 

Thanks, however, to the honesty of the bulk of the 
trade, and the unsurpassed qualities of real logw’ood ex¬ 
tract, the industry has so far survived, and not only are 
the defaulters beginning to see the error of their ways, 
but improved methods of extraction have been adopted, 
and a very superior class of extract has been placed at 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


gs 

the disposal of dyers at a reasonable price. For the last 
three years the price of logwood extract, which had pre¬ 
viously fallen heavily, has been steadily regaining its 
lost ground, and its consumption, which had dwindled 
nearly to the vanishing point, is doing the same. The 
import trade of logwood is now in a fairly brisk state. 
This condition of affairs can only be explained by a re¬ 
turn front artificial dyes to logw’ood in a considerable 
number of cases, and evidence is not wanting that this 
change is going on to a great extent in Germany, Aus¬ 
tria, Russia. France and Great Britain. The writer has had 
an extensive experience for many years in dyeing wool, 
cotton, and silk with logwood, and always gave great 
satisfaction to all his customers. It w’lll thus be easily 
imagined that the travelers had immense difficulty in per¬ 
suading him to abandon logwood for the artificial black 
dyes sold by their firms. At last, however, they succeeded, 
and he found that he was at first spared much trouble 
and time, hut was hardly satisfied himself in regard to 
the levelness and bloom of the black produced. But it w r as 
when the goods dyed in the new manner began to reach 
the customers that the trouble began. Complaints came 
In from all sides, and questions as to w'hy they could not 
get the fine black they had been receiving heretofore. 
Fortunately, the w’riter had not gone too far, and for the 
last twelve months he has not dyed a single yard of ma¬ 
terial black except with logwood. He knows, too. that 
he has not been the only one who has learned by ex¬ 
perience and loss of cash to return to the old orocess, 
which indirectly repays amply the greater labor it in¬ 
volves’ in fact the hardest part of the work in the old 
da>s used to lie the preparation of the solution of extract 
from the wood. The dyer is now saved all that trouble, 
as from any extract maker of established reputation he 
can buy better extracts than he can make himself, and 
can therefore stock the extracts suitable for the various 
classes of goods which he dyes. It is sheer nonsense to 
assert, as some persons do, that the same extract that 
will do for cottop will also serve for silk or w’ool. 

The time has gone by when it was supposed that the 
black dyer's best friends w*ere the artificial coloring mat¬ 
ters. For very cheap classes of goods, where there is no 
remuneration for the extra labor involved in the use of 
logwood, the artificial dyes must have the preference, but 
for high-class goods it is logwood or nothing. For fast¬ 
ness combined with a rich bloom, logwood black still 
stands alone. 

Logwood chips, Logwood extract, ‘‘Hemotexaline,” 


69 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

Madder, Sumac, Tin crystals, Zinc. Acids: Acetic, Lac¬ 
tic, Oxalic, Muriatic, Sulphuric. Tannic, Tartaric, Picric, 
Citric. Alum, Blue vitriol, Cream of tartar. Glauber 
salts, Copperas, Bichromate of soda, Bichromate of pot¬ 
ash, Nitrate of soda, Nitrate of potash, Chlorate of soda, 
Chlorate of potash, Sal soda, Red and Yellow Prussiates 
of potash. Sulphate of soda. Aqua ammonia, Catechu, 
Cochineal, Woad, Synthetic indigo and hundreds of com¬ 
binations for various purposes. 

Dye Drugs and their functions: To explain the nature 
of and the part each drug plays in textile manufacturing, 
would require more space than can be given here. Each 
one of these is used in combination with others to bring 
out some definite result; the primary consideration being 
fastness to fibre or fabric so dyed. Some of these are 
exceedingly poisonous, and the utmost care should be 
exercised to have no discoloration during service. 

“Norfolk, Va., Aug. 7, 1901. Lieutenant-Commander 
James C. Cresap, U. S. N., of the inspection board at the 
Norfolk Navy Yard, died at the naval hospital here this 
morning of blood poisoning caused by the dye of a stock¬ 
ing absorbed in a slight abrasion on his foot about three 
weeks ago. The officer was born in Ohio in 1849 and en¬ 
tered the navy in 1837. He served on the gunboat Vicks¬ 
burg in the Spanish war. A widow and two sons survive 
him.” 

“Mrs. William Muldoon, mother of Patrolman Duke 
Muldoon of Malden, is seriously ill at the Malden Hos¬ 
pital from blood poisoning. She received a small cut on 
the foot in which some dye from her stocking entered. 
Her right leg was amputated at the hospital today, and 
there are slight chances for her recovery.” B. H. 

Woolen Goods “Adulterated”: The disuse, to a large 
extent, of the finer quality of wool for clothing and dress 
materials during the last ten years has been the result 
not of the difficulty in obtaining the raw article, but of 
the demand by rich and poor alike for cheaper clothing. 
As an authority recently w’rote: “Changed conditions de¬ 
mand changed materials. Owing to changes in fashion 
the garments of today are 25 pei cent, worse in quality 
than they were, aye, even ten years ago. All this meant 
change in the quality of wool, manufacturers had been 
used to consume, and it is on this very score that good, 
sbafty. merino wool has grown so popular these last five 
to ten years.” To this must be added that the enormous 
strides made in the improvement of machinery have en¬ 
abled the manufacturer to turn out material to look as 
good as the best, and to wear well, at a considerably less 


70 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


cost. The fine broadcloth and the superfine dress ma¬ 
terial Is still made, but only to a small degree; but the 
wearer gets Instead material that pleases the eye Just as 
much as did the rich textures of the past. “What the 
eye does not see the pocket will not feel” is a subversion 
of the old adage that may fitly be applied in this case. 

Wo often wonder why there should be such a great dif¬ 
ference in price in two suits of clothes, looking very 
much alike in both texture and finish. If after wonder¬ 
ing you are determined to look closer into the matter, 
you will find that while one consists of about 90 per cent, 
of wool, the other will not contain more than 20 per cent, 
and may contain less. The difference is in the cotton 
woven into the material, and this is so cunningly dis¬ 
guised that only a tradesman can discern it 

As with the materfal, so with the dyes used. There are 
dyes that will “run," and others that are called “fast”; 
but if often occurs that the so-called “fast” colors inflict 
greater injury to the material than those that are in¬ 
clined to “run.” In the past, when one took a pieec of 
cloth in the hand, the weight, substance and solidity of 
the material could be judged by weight. Today we may 
get the same solidity and weight, but we cannot depend 
on the substance and contexture of the material. It hap¬ 
pened only lately that two branches of the woolen trade, 
through their associations, had to take into serious con¬ 
sideration the filled and unfilled worsted coatings ques¬ 
tion. Certain manufacturers have for a long time Dast 
«>een adding chloride of zinc and other substances in order 
to secure weight to certain material which was not made 
of pure wool, and the practice if continued, was calcu¬ 
lated to do the pure worsted trade a serious injury. The 
dyers say that some of their customers are to blame for 
it, as they demand this weighted material. A com¬ 
promise has. however, been arrived at which will be of 
benefit to the retail man; but in view of the scanty 
knowledge the public possess of the materials they wear, 
the benefit to the material is extremely doubtful. The 
dyes used in the coloring, on account of the acids used in 
preparing them, often cause injury to the texture of the 
cloth T have before me a number of recipes for dyers, 
and sulphuric acid occurs in many of them. Indigo, one 
of the purest dyes, is adulterated to a large extent, and 
so are other dyes w’hose ccst prevents them being used in 
the cheap manufactures. 

With the view of giving the public information on what 
they* wear I collected, indiscriminately, a number of sam¬ 
ples of cloth, all supposed to be wool, although in one or 




71 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

two instances I was shewn the real and the imitation, 
looking much alike to the naked eye. The matter being 
one of public interest the samples were kindly analyzed 
by Mr. Guthrie, the analyst to the Department of Agri¬ 
culture. The actual work was, however, done by Mr. 
Rouscy, the chemist of the laboratory. In the subjoined 
table the distinguishing marks A to G denote the various 
firms from whom I obtained the samples. 

Table of Analysis. 


Distinguishing 

Percents ge 

Moisture 

Percentage. 

Moisture 

Mark. 

Wool. 

Cotton. 

at 100° C. 

at 120= C. 

A1 

71.6 

15.2 

6.2 

7.7 

A2 

95.9 

nil 

7.7 

8.7 

A3 

9S.8 

nil 

8.0 

8.7 

m 

97.4 

nil 

_ 


B2 

90.3 

nil 

_ 

_ 

B3 

92.6 

nil 

_ 

___ 

B4 

23.2 

76.1 

_ 

_ 

Cl 

92.1 

nil 


_ 

C2 

100.0 

nil 

7.5 

8.5 

C3 

91.8 

nil 

— 

— 

C4 

98.7 

nil 

8.8 

9.2 

D1 

3.5 

18.5 

— 

— 

D2 

15.4 

41.3 

— 

_ 

D3 

93.5 

nil 

—— 

— 

D4 

68.2 

nil 

— 

— 

El 

79.9 

15.1 

6.S 

7.6 

E2 

67.9 

30.7 

6.1 

7.6 

E3 

65.2 

32.0 

6.8 

7.9 

FI 

nil 

84.5 

— 

— 

F2 

91.8 

nil 

— 

— 

F3 

27.6 

54.2 

— 

— 

F4 

95.6 

nil 

— 

— 

G1 

96.7 

nil 

— 

— 

G2 

94.9 

nil 

— 

— 

G3 

96.4 

nil 

— 

— 


Remarks—“Wool” has been determined by treatment of 
the cloth dried at 100° C. with strong sulphuric acid, 
washing thoroughly, and drying at 100°. In some cases 
the dyes used are difficult to discharge, and on this ac¬ 
count the figure under “wool” contains also some dyestuff 
undischarged. 

“Cotton” has been determined by treatment of the cloth 
(previously dried at 100° C.) with caustic potash, washing 
and drying at 100° C. This figure under “cotton” will also 
Include any undischarged dyestuff as well as cotton. 


72 THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

It will bo noticed that several samples contain a large 
quantity of the pure article, hut the voluminous remarks 
of the analyist, too extensive for publication, discount 
much of the supposition. Of sample A1 he says: "Blue 
dye remains in wool. Cotton remains like a double sieve. 
The wool, which is short, is woven in between.” Sample 
B4: “Structure of wool indefinite; very dirty, and short; 
shoddy wool; markings almost worn off wool fibres.” The 
samples El to E3 have the weaving strands composed of 
cotton, the woolen fibres, which are short and uneven, 
being bound round. Of F3 he says; “Good wool, but short; 
the cotton sorts out into a bundle of loose cotton 
threads.” In other cases where the percentage of wool is 
marked over 90 per cent., the fibre is often short and of 
uneven qirality. 

As regards the dj-es used the following remarks of the 
analyst will give a good idea of what reliability can be 
placed on some colors usually called “fast.” A3 98.8 per 
cent. wool. “Blue-black color, turns dirty brown.” G1 
96.7 per cent, wool; Same remarks as above. G2 and G3; 
“Blue color almost discharged.” In a large number of 
cases the color was totally discharged, but in many in¬ 
stances the original dye remained in the wool. On re¬ 
ferring to the list I made before sending the samples for 
analysis, I find that several of the West of England man¬ 
ufactures, ranging from 6s. 9d. to 47s. 6d. per yard, and 
some of the cloths made in Germany, and others made in 
Yorkshire at about the same prices, were what they were 
represented to be, but these materials are not used to a 
very great extent. I was shown a piece of worsted cloth 
made in Yorkshire at 4s. per yard, and alongside a capital 
imitation of it—texture, color and pattern—at lOVfcd. per 
yard made in Belgium. The serges open up a field for 
even greater adulteration. There were placed for my view 
a very fine corkscrew worsted serge at 6s. per yard, and 
serges gradually lowering in price to Is. per yard, the 
latter being a cotton warp and shoddy weft, 56 in. wide, 
made in Leeds. A large quantity of trousering material is 
made in Italy, France and Germany, but the adulteration 
of woolen goods is just as great in Yorkshire. At the 
same time, Yorkshire supplies some of the best material, 
and nearly all billiard cloth is made there. The county 
turns out some of the finest worsted coatings, but the cen¬ 
tral part of Scotland and the West of England are said 
to produce more good material than Yorkshire.—“Lana,” 
in the Sidney Mail. 



THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


73 


TESTING OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 


SILK TEST. 

Experiments made to determine the effect of various so¬ 
lutions on artificial silk gave the following results: 

(1) A sample of Chardonnet silk was boiled one hour 
in distilled water. Upon taking the sample out, it was 
found to be soft, and it parted when subjected to a slight 
tension. 

(2) A sample of artificial silk was steeped one hour 
in a strong solution of acetic acid. The result was simi¬ 
lar to that of No. 1 test. When dry the silk possessed 
the well-known quality called scroop, caused by the acid. 
This scroop was, however, much less than is found in nat¬ 
ural silk. 

(3) A treatment in benzine for one hour caused no 
change other than that the fibre appeared somewhat 
harsher after the benzine evaporated. 

The following methods are employed for distinguishing 
Chardonnet artificial silk from natural silk: 

(a) A yellow color is imparted to the liquor when the 
artificial product is dissolved in an alkaline solution. In 
the case of natural silk the liquor is colorless. 

(b) Artificial silk burns quickly in a flame, and very 
little ash remains. True silk carbonizes when burnt. 

(cj Artificial silk is reddened when treated first with 
sulphuric acid and afterwards with brucine; a small 
quantity of diphenylamine causes a blue color, since 
nitric acid is always present in the fibre. 

(d) Natural silk is dissolved in a solution of 10 grams 
of sulphate of copper and 5 grams of glycerine in 100 cm. 
of water, to which sufficient alkali is added to dissolve 
the resulting deposit. Artificial silk is not soluble in this 
solution. 

In testing silk for linen or cotton use the wool test. 
Mercerized cotton, “mercerized silk so-called after its 
inventor,” will remain intact. 

WOOL TEST.—CAUSTIC SODA. 

Take an agate-ware dish containing a quantity of clean 
water sufficient to boil the piece of cloth to be tested, and 
heat. Then put in a small piece of caustic soda “at the 
rate of one whole stick to half a pint of water” and let 
boll up. Now enter the cloth to be tested and boil for 
five minutes, stirring occasionally with wooden stick or 
glass rod; this done, pour into very fine strainer and pour 
clean w’ater over it until perfectly clean. 



74 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


M the piece were made of all animal fibre, nothing will 
remain in the strainer. Should it contain cotton, 4ute. 
hemp, ramie, turf or any other vegetable fibre, these will 
remain in the strainer and may be dried and weighed to 
ascertain the percentage, providing the sample 90 tested 
was weighed before boiling out. Stripes of mercerized 
cotton that have the appearance of spun silk, in ■woolen 
goods, will not dissolve; spun silk on the other hand will 
dissolve in this solution. 

COTTON TEST.—SULPHURIC ACID. 

Take concentrated sulphuric acid and with this thor¬ 
oughly saturate a small spot in the piece to be tested, 
(this is best done with a medicine dropper), let the piece 
lay five or ten minutes, then wash until perfectly clean. If 
any vegetable fibre is contained in the piece, the sulphuric 
acid and subsequent washing removes it, and the fabric, 
where such matter has been removed, will have the ap¬ 
pearance of a strainer; or, if the percentage is great, the 
piece may virtually fall apart in that spot so treated. 

2. Make a 1 per cent. B solution of sulphuric acid in w T ater 
and of sufficient quantity to completely immerse the piece 
to be treated. Soak in this solution "cold” for three or 
four hours; take out and squeeze dry as much as possible 
between two pieces of w’ood or other material (not the 
hands) and dry in an intense heat, say 200° Fahrenheit. 
When thoroughly dry rub between the fingers and all 
vegetable matter will fall out, leaving nothing but animal 
fibres. This process is used extensively in carbonizing 
woolen goods In which shoddy of doubtful quality has 
been used, and to make sure that no cotton shall remain 
in the cloth, and is commonly called “carbonizing.” 

SILK AND COTTON UNION TEST. 

Take from the fabric or yarn to be tested several 
threads and dip into 5 per cent, solution of nitric acid. If 
silk, the material turns yellow'; if cotton no change will 
be apparent. 

WOOL AND SHODDY TEST. SEE “LANA.” 

This requires a good microscope and some experience in 
its use. Tenderness of a fabric does not prove its con¬ 
taining shoddy. Strength on the other hand does not 
prove the fabric to be of pure new wool. 

COLOR TEST. 

With a very few exceptions chemical tests on chemically 
compounded colors are misleading. The weather is the 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 75 

only reliable and safe test. Expose cloth to weather for 
five days. As, however, in purchasing ready to wear gar¬ 
ments this cannot oe done, take a clean white handker¬ 
chief, slightly moisten a small portion, and rub over the 
outer cloth and note result. If color comes off readily it 
proves that the color is either not fast or that the cloth 
was not thoroughly cleansed before leaving the manufac¬ 
tory, or both. It is a severe test on all heavy colors. 
All high grade goods are tested in this manner by 
those making them, and a mere perceptible stain on 
the white cloth is not against the fabric so tested. 

With the information herein contained thoroughly as¬ 
similated, the reader should find little or no difficulty in 
selecting what is wanted and test it to prove he has not 
been deceived. 

ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTE. 

Get what you want. Accept no substitutes because of 
dealers recommendation as just as good. The caustic 
potash test does not determine the cloth to be of pure 
new wool. Remember, too, that no clothier can afford to 
sell $20.00 values for $10.00 in the regular course of busi¬ 
ness. and where such advertisements do appear will be for 
the purpose to draw you to the establishment. 

The standard of value of woolens is based on purely new 
wool. Do not expect to share profits with the dealer un¬ 
less you also share the responsibility. 

Do not attempt to get something for nothing lest you 
be disappointed. 

Wear good all wool clothes. Shun all substitutes. 

The self consciousness of being well dressed will more 
than off-set the extra outlay and will be found cheapest 
in the end. 


THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 


Mr. E. A. Paddock, president of the Idaho Industrial 
Institution said: “The way New' England people are 
being cajoled into buying worthless mining stock in 
Idaho makes me agree wdth President Eliot, w'ho said 
there is something the matter with the education of our 
daw. 

“The people who buy stock in Western mining com¬ 
panies in 99 out of 100 cases lose all. The way the stock 
of these prospecting companies is sold makes me think 
that there is something wrong in Boston.” 

The foregoing means, if it means anything, that we 




76 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


have been educated to “Get something for nothing. This 
holds good In the clothing trade, and, the clothier hav¬ 
ing accomplished his purpose, is now forced to cover up 
the deception by ever-changing styles of fabric and gar¬ 
ments. It is only a change of the game, the results are 
the same* 

Ten ($10) dollars cannot clothe a man or woman from 
head to foot in all new, wool garments, with hose, shoes 
and hat added. 

There is no real pleasure in wearing clothes upon 
which the dealer has a Hen. 

The same goods can be bought for cash for from 15 to 
25 per cent, less, or that difference in quality can be had 
for the same amount. 

At least 10 per cent, of those that purchase on the in¬ 
stalment plan don’t pay, and those that do must make 
this loss good. Here is a net saving of 10 per cent., be¬ 
sides the expenses incurred for clerical hire incident to 
a business of tills kind. 

A fair price is reasonable assurance against imposi¬ 
tion, while danger always lurks in extremely low prices. 

It ts safe to pass by $20.00 values advertised to be 
sold at $10.00. 

Extraordinary high prices always assure extraordinary 
high values in materials. 

Of those handling ready-to-wear garments, but an in¬ 
significant number know even the first rudiments about 
the stock they sell. 

Every clothier knows what he buys, and cannot, 
therefore, plead ignorance when called to account. He 
should sell them as what they are. 

The purchaser has a right to know the constituent 
parts in the composition. It is not a question of value 
received; but, is the material what it was sold for? 

There are still a few of the old-time clothiers doing 
business at the old stand, and in the highest standard 
fabrics. A few indeed. 

Honesty is the best policy in the end. 

By the careful perusal of this “Vade Mecum” and 
carefully following its teachings, the salesman may be- 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 77 

come an intelligent salesman, and the customer an in¬ 
telligent. customer. 

It is best to know what you want, and then insist on 
having it. 

What applies to food may also apply otherwise—from 
a moral standpoint. 

Severe I„ecture on Adulteration Administered to Con¬ 
victed Defendants by Judge Pettengill of Malden: Judge 
Pettengill of the Malden district court gave the four 
men who yesterday were fined $5 each for selling adul¬ 
terated lard a severe lecture regarding the dangers of 
impure food. State Agent McCaffrey, who had had the 
men arrested, told the judge he had received many com¬ 
plaints from Malden merchants that compound lard was 
being sold without being properly marked. Judge Pet¬ 
tengill told the men they had better throw away their 
adulterated food in the stores and sell pure goods. He 
stated that if a man sold rum, he ought to be compelled 
to soli pure rum. Doctored rum, he said, made men 
crazy, while the old-fashioned stuff they used to sell had 
such an effect that men lived so long they had to be 
killed. It was the same, the judge declared, with adul¬ 
terated as compared with pure food. All four men 
gladly paid their fines of $5 each. 

Most clothiers of the present day will pooh, pooh the 
idea of telling his prospective customer all about the 
article in question. Those dealing in honest goods will 
glodlv do so for their mutual benefit. 

Some obtain business by advertising fictitious values. 
Others, by selling first class goods at reasonable prices 
and profits. 

No dealer can afford to share profits with his customer 
without first overcharging on bill of goods sold, and 
again on subsequent bill to which such dividends are ap¬ 
plied as part payment. 

This Vade Mecum is a necessity to every clothing 
salesman and saleslady, and will prove beneficial to all. 

This is advice to clothiers. 

THE MESSENGER. 

Rabbi Ben Josef, old and blind, 

Pressed by the crowd before, behind, 

Passed through the market place one day, 


L. of C. 




78 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


Seeking with weary feet his way. 

The city’s traffic loud confused 
Ills senses, to retirement used. 

The voice of them that bought and sold. 

With clink of silver piece and gold. 

“Jehovah.” cried he, jostled sore, 
rearing to fall and rise no more, 

“Thine angel send to guide my feet, 

And part the ways where dangers meet.” 

Just then a beggar as he passed, 

A glance of pity on him cast, 

And, seeing so his bitter need, 

Stretched forth his hand his steps to lead. 

“Not so,” Ben Josef cried: “I w'ait 
* A guide sent from Jehovah’s gate.” 

The beggar left, thus rudely spurned 
Where gratitude he should have earned. 

As day wore on the hubbub rose 
Louder and harsher to its close. 

The old man, weary, sought in vain 
An exit from the crow’d to gain. 

Jostled at every turn, his feet 
Stumbled upon the ill-paved street. 

Once more he cried, “Jehovah, where 
Iho answ'er to Thy servant’s prayer? 

No angel, sw'lft winged from Thy throne. 

Has hither for the helping flown." 

Then came a whisper, clear and low*: 

“My messenger thou didst not know. 

‘ Tor in a beggar’s humble guise 

His outstretched hand thou didst despise; 

Nor cared beneath his rags to find 
The heart that made his action kind. 

See now’ that thou the lesson learn. 

Lest he whose face thou canst not see 
Should prove a messenger from Me.” 

—American Israelite. 

An ox donated to a barbecue is but another means of 
introducing his hide in the form of French calf shoes, 
etc., etc. 

We swallow' without the sauce of reason a lie that ap¬ 
peals to our vanity, and accept without doubt the truth 
against us.—A. G. Lewis. 


79 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 

To not know woolen goods frequently means only tliat 
one does not understand them. Study this book care¬ 
fully. 

Those that endeavor to be honest need our aid and in¬ 
fluence to keep them so. 

Out from our experience with shoddy and rubbish in 
the past, there should come the realization of a better 
grade of ready-made clothing at reasonable prices in 
the future. 

The lamb is cared for with utmost tenderness, and is 
fleeced at larrt. 

No all new wool cassimere, 16 1/2 oz. finished 6/4 wide, 
can be made for 65 cents per yard in the regular course 
of manufacturing. 

We put too much trust in our eye and too little in our 
judgment. 

It always is safe to put the greatest distrust in cloth¬ 
ing advertisements appearing in popular novels and 
magazines. 

Better values are obtained from local dealers than 
those from remote parts of the country. 

The dealer in cheap trash has educated the consumer 
to the wearing of sweat-shop made clothing made of 
shoddy, ' mungo and cotton, with a liberal daubing of 
flocks, because of large profits. 

The Honest Merchant is taking the initiative to expose 
this fraud on the consumer. 

He who advertises extraordinary high values at ex¬ 
tremely low prices is a Philanthropist; very, very much 
in love with himself. The “My Friend,’’ or “My Dear 
Friend’' addressed to you by a stranger, are but traps 
in which he expects to catch you. A Gold Brick Game, 

An HONEST business man meets you in a pleasant, 
but business-like manner. 

Tests made on samples obtained from Western Custom 
Tailoring Concerns, in answer to advertisements in our 
high class magazines, revealed misrepresentation. 

Once you have found where you can get what you 
want, get it there always. Try the LOCAL dealer first. 



80 


THE AMERICAN WEAVER. 


If you purchase goods composed of shoddy and cotton 
at 3hoddy prices under the delusion of getting all wool 
at a bargain, you should blame none other than your¬ 
self. 

There is flimsy extravagance in imaginary cheapness 
There is no value in style. 

Good, all wool clothing, made under the most cleanly 
conditions, can be had at reasonable prices. The real 
value is in material and labor. 

There are very few Clothing Manufacturers that make 
none but strictly high grade, all wool clothing. “This 
refers to the outer cloth.“ 

The great bulk of the really all wool cloth is bought 
up by first class merchant tailors, and a few clothing 
manufacturers and dealers. 

As Salesman or Saleslady you should know’ what cloth 
is made of, in order to be prepared to answer a cus¬ 
tomer's questions intelligently; because some of these 
know how’ to ask questions and expect a satisfactory 
answer; failing to receive it he will go elsewhere and 
thus a sale is lost. 

Such as “No Money Down," “We Trust You,” “Buy 
Now ! Pay When You Can,” are inducements it is best 
not to take advantage of. 

To buy on aforesaid plag encourages buying beyond 
one’s means, impoverish the buyer and enrich the seller. 

No suits are made to order at a loss to maker. To 
make one at prices quoted below’ means cotton and 
mungo for outer cloth, with the cheapest kind of work¬ 
manship in the making, and materials in linings, etc. 
Read the following advertisement carefully and think it 


over 


One-half Price. Suits to Order 17.75 to 125. Former 
prices. $15.50 to $50. Stock includes a number of medium 
weights suitable for Fall wear. Now is your oppor¬ 


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